A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

The Sichuan-Tibet central line that I have been thinking about has been brewing for a long time, and several editions of the road book have been compiled, and the trip finally took place in late September this year. The starting point is two Transiters just bought in July, both with 2.7 displacement, one beggar’s version SR5 and one EXR, the actual configuration is not much higher; they drive exactly the same. The route book for this crossing plan is as follows: Sichuan-Tibet Central Line crosses Yunnan into Sichuan and exits in a small way.

D1: Hangzhou – Kunming 2170KM 24 hours

D2: Kunming——Dali and the first car meet up distance 330KM 5 hours

D3/D4: Dali – Deqin – Zuogong 860KM 15 hours, divided into 2 days; or take the line between Bingzhongluo and Zuogong in Gongshan Dulong Autonomous Prefecture.

D5: Zuogong – Bangda – Ranwu – Bomi – Yigong Township (or live in Bomi) (545KM) 12 hours

D6/D7: Yigong Township (Yigong Cuo Tea Factory gas station fill up with fuel) – Bagai – Jiagong – or Zhongyu – Dongduo (Sapu Shenshan) tentatively estimated 200KM, crossing the route, the altitude is relatively high The height is 4000m (camping or living in Yangxiu Township, Baiga Township). The time is uncertain. If the section from Zhongyu to Jinling is blocked, you can go directly from Zhongyu-Jinling-Bianba.

D8: Dongduo—Yangxiu Township—Bianba—Jinling Township—Bianba (150KM+Crossing route straight line 30KM+30KM return trip) time is not

D9: Bianba Township – Sanse Lake – Luolong Shuodu – Bianba Township (straight line 60KM + provincial road 160KM + 160KM round trip)

D10: Bianba – Duwa Township – Reyu Township – Dangdui Township – Langtong Village, Xiexiong County – Dingqing County (half crossing 150KM) The time is uncertain

D11: Dingqing County (Butuo Lake) – Leiwuqi – Qamdo 250KM time is uncertain (road conditions are unknown)

D12: Qamdo – Batang 530KM 11 hours

D13/D14: Batang – Gemu Village – Lamaya Township – Litang 230KM Genie South Line Crossing

Due to road closures and road repairs, a lot of time was lost, and the itinerary was adjusted midway. The southern line of Gnei was not completed, and it will be made up until the next departure.

The post has been published on the Traveler Forum of Autohome, but the popularity is really not very strong, so I will share this journey with the E family friends here. The photos of a few check-in points will be released first, and the story will be told slowly……

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Mount Sap

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Natural Dangers Turn All Ways——Tongmai Bridge

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Internet celebrity check-in point – Dongda Mountain

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Gadilla mountain is also winding

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Medika Wetland of International Importance

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Medica Wetland

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Medica Wetland Rotten Road

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

ranwu lake

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

2 traversers in front of Sap God Mountain

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Get up close and personal with Sapp

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Dazong Ruins by the Sanse Lake

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Of the Three Color Lakes – Black Lake

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Zhongyu Township, also known as Niwu Township

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Glacier, Village 14, Zhongyu Township

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

14 Village Glacier

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

such as skull wall

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

skull wall

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Shuo Du Temple

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Check in at the foot of the Sap God Mountain

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Playing by the Sap Glacier Lake

The story officially begins……..

prologue:

Preparations: In fact, our small team meeting has been held several times, and every time we will eat and drink before borrowing… The word N is omitted here… Of course, GPS preparation and track downloading are all mine up.

The actual determination of the number of personnel and vehicles is already a matter of my family after the start of school. It was originally confirmed that 2 new traversers will start, and 7-8 middle-aged and elderly people will set off together. Only 6 people will be left when the departure is approaching. They are 2 car owners—Wang Xiaoyu, Banbanhu, the other 4 Tangshan, Yimapingchuan took my car (Banbanhu), Master Kong, and Master Chen took Wang Xiaoyu’s car. We are friends for many years, have traveled many times, are very familiar with each other, and prepare separately for the long journey.

Since Wang Xiaoyu’s car left for a week first, our car will not start until the evening of the 20th. The front car enjoyed a slow-paced week of leisure time. During the period, I consulted friends who were already on the road. If there is a traffic jam, our original plan to take Degong or Bingcha Zuo will be adjusted immediately, and we decide that the first car and the last car will meet in Dali Ancient City on September 23. On the evening of the 20th, the three of us took our luggage and said goodbye to our family, and hurriedly embarked on the westbound road. Counting my fingers, I have entered Tibet for the fourth time. I am still full of expectations for the untouched hinterland of eastern Tibet. It is still the same as the first time. I was just as excited about entering Tibet, but I was less worried about entering Tibet for the first time. After all, I was already an old donkey…

9.20 Pick up Tangshan at 8:00 p.m., one map Pingchuan two, then hurry on the road wearing stars and moons.

In the evening on 9.21, the three of us decided to live in Panzhou. Panzhou is located at the junction of southwestern Guizhou and Yunnan. They are all running towards a well-off life; for dinner, go to a place where locals gather for dinner. A restaurant that specializes in dry pot beef. The exotic taste completely conquers our taste buds. This kind of food can’t be eaten in Hangzhou, and the portion is enough. The key price is not expensive. The waiters are all local aunts, who are probably ethnic minorities. They can’t understand Mandarin, and it takes a long time to communicate with each other when ordering and checking out. After drinking and eating, I fell asleep when I returned to the hotel, and it was dawn when I woke up.

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Panzhou

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Dry pot beef, tastes great

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Panzhou local beer

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

eat on a bench

9.22 The next morning, there was still a 600-kilometer drive. Thinking that the victory reunion was just around the corner, I planned where to go for lunch and delicious food before departure; the first car WeChat recommended to eat the Roasted Shelduck in Rongsheng Garden, Kunming, which was ranked high in Dianping. It’s delicious and not expensive (38 yuan each), and I ordered some other special dishes, which are quite suitable for our appetite. It is estimated that all three of us are a little full, and then there is not much left in the journey, and the mind begins to paralyze, and the eyelids fight after the meal. Sleepy. Tang Shan is an old driver with an A license for more than 30 years. After dinner, he asked to drive. Yimapingchuan and I fell asleep in the car. In a daze, we were both awakened by the sudden brake. Brother Tang Shan had a close relationship with the car. Contact – tailgating…….

Fortunately, all of us were wearing seat belts, things were scattered all over the floor, and everyone was fine. Our minds were buzzing at the time, and we hung up before we met just after we set off? The accident took place on the Kunming Ring Road, and the two vehicles involved in the accident were not seriously injured. As soon as we discussed it, we quickly pulled over, called the police, and waited for the traffic police to deal with it quickly. The traffic police instructed us to wait for the nearest exit to deal with it quickly; through the communication, the owner of the car is from Ningguo, Anhui, who is considered half of the hometown, and the vehicle insurance company is the same company — PICC; The traffic police came while we were anxiously waiting (the rhythm there was relatively slow). After the processing was completed, we returned to the Toyota 4S shop in Kunming and spent 200 yuan to temporarily fix the broken parts of the front security and the central grid; the whole process was wasted We spent 4 hours; fortunately, the problem was not serious, and the vehicle was running normally. At the same time, it also reflected the unity of our three old revolutionaries in one vehicle, fearless of hardships and dangers, and the fearless revolutionary spirit of not being slightly injured.

When we arrived at the ancient city of Dali, it was already 10 o’clock in the evening; a good meal is not afraid of being late, after meeting with the lead car, we quickly found a restaurant, drank two glasses of peach blossom wine to calm the shock, and when we were full, it was over 12 o’clock, and we went to bed. It’s already 1 o’clock in the morning; people are old (40s are not too old), get tired easily, and sleep until dawn.

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Rongsheng Garden

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

A table full of dishes

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Specialties—Roasted Sheldon Duck

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

my car

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

rear-end volkswagen ass

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Stay at Dali Ancient Town B&B

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Drink a glass of peach blossom wine to calm down the shock

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

The ancient city of Dali is still very avant-garde

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Peach Blossom Wine

9.23 Early the next morning, the proprietress of the Gucheng B&B personally cooked a breakfast combining Chinese and Western styles, and we went to the old city gate to buy fried dough sticks from a roadside stall. We had a delicious and full meal; we set off to go to Yunnan and Tibet—tonight Rush to Deqin. I suggest that you can go to Chongsheng Temple on the way, and there is also Wuwei Temple (the temple where the king of Dali became a monk) that is not known to tourists; we passed the 5A-level check-in point Chongsheng Temple (Three Pagodas) and did not waste it inside Feelings, but the unknown Wuwei Temple. We stayed for a long time. The temple was built in the Tang Dynasty during the Zhenguan period and has a history of more than a thousand years. It is very attractive to us. This is a real royal temple. There are many Chinese and foreign people practicing martial arts at the gate of the temple. It turns out that the Chinese martial arts culture has been accumulated for many years here. Presumably, the hero Jin Yong also traced his roots. In the novel, he described in detail the peerless martial arts of the Dali Duan family. The origin of Prince Duan……

There is no high-speed road from Dali. When it was lunch time, we chose a farmhouse in the first bay of the Yangtze River for lunch. The altitude is high here. Tangshan called for cold-water fish in the Yangtze River, a Yangtze River carp weighing more than 3 kg with a beard and no scales on its body. It became our main dish, and everyone resolved it on the spot. It was delicious, absolutely delicious; we continued to set off with a full belch; there was no expressway, only the National Highway 214 along the Yangtze River, and everyone proceeded cautiously; we saw a group on the road Fog, passing the big turn of the Nujiang River, everyone rushed to Deqin cautiously, but turned around to the center of the county to have dinner first, and went to the number one Internet celebrity restaurant in Deqin County to eat fish… During the meal, everyone was angry Talking about accommodation, a funny thing happened. Everyone unanimously decided to live near Feilai Temple in Meili Snow Mountain Scenic Area. The next day, I saw the Rizhao Jinshan. After a lot of trouble, the boss told me that I hadn’t seen the snow mountain for a month. Yes, tomorrow depends on luck, but it started to rain in the middle of the night, okay, nothing.

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Dali Ancient Town

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Dali Ancient Town Street

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

special breakfast

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Check in at Chongsheng Temple

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Wuwei Temple Tangshan

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Wuwei Temple

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Changjiang carp

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

restaurant for lunch

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Live fish has become delicious

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Pick up at the first bay check-in point and continue the story

9.24 In the morning, the boss made a hearty breakfast (the barley cakes are really delicious); after saying goodbye to the Tibetan boss, we climbed all the way to the altitude, and the goal of Zuogong was considered to have entered Tibet. Early in the morning, everyone continued to walk along G214. Today’s destination is Zuogong. The altitude is gradually rising, and snow-capped mountains are also increasing on the roadside. At the Yanjing checkpoint, we ran into an Australian couple who traveled around the world in a classic car. They are all in their 70s, and they are working hard to realize their dreams. Age does not seem to be a problem; all kinds of onlookers, taking pictures, and everyone admiringly bless this pair of foreign friends. We were going to Mangkang for lunch, but we did something terrible on the way. We gave up refueling at Yanjing (the locals said the oil was not good). At this time, my mileage on the watch could still run 90KM, while Wang Xiaoyu’s car watch Obviously, it is 30KM less than me and only 60KM. Wang Xiaoyu’s car oil gauge alarm light is on after less than 20KM. After 20KM, my car also has a yellow light. At this time, we are getting nervous. We still have 70KM to Mangkang , and the altitude is rising, and there are many climbing sections; there is no place to replenish fuel on the road. The fuel tank of the traverser is 80 liters, which is estimated to be enough. Everyone starts to drive in fuel-saving mode, 60 yards on a flat road, and the downhill should be as little as possible. Brake, lightly step on the accelerator uphill to put an end to all fuel-wasting behaviors; just like this, I drove more than 70 kilometers cautiously.

When I was about to enter Mangkang County, I encountered a traffic police blocking the way, saying that elementary school students were leaving school, and they stopped to give way for safety, and for the sake of the next generation of the motherland, we must praise the police in Tibetan areas. We also very much agree with such a move, looking at the flowers of the motherland Passing in line beside you, every rosy face is so innocent, every smiling face is so sincere, every pair of eyes is so clear…… No wonder Tibet is so attractive, you can find purity. I rushed to PetroChina as soon as it opened to traffic. I added more than 72 liters, and Wang Xiaoyu added more than 75 liters. The oil price is super expensive, 8.58 yuan / liter. The redundancy limit of the traverser is still quite good. This time It can be regarded as a limit test. There is still about 10-12L of oil when the yellow light is on, and the battery life of 70-80 kilometers is possible. For lunch, I went to a Mangkang beef hot pot restaurant. A large pot of beef was tumbling in the thick smell of soot. The plateau was already hypoxic, and there was a strong pungent smell of soot. At the hot pot restaurant, I took a few deep breaths of outdoor air to relieve myself (the tortillas in the store are delicious, take a pack); as the altitude increased all the way, we came to the first high point of this crossing—— Dongdashan, when I checked in at Dongdashan, I met the Australian couple who traveled around the world by car. They were still surrounded by many tourists, taking pictures, blessings, and full of praise… We went straight to Zuogong again, to the left It was already dark when I stayed here. Meals and accommodation are next door. The hotel accommodation and dinner are very good. The word N is omitted here…

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Meet an Australian couple traveling around the world

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

classic cars

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Australian couple’s global travel map

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Beef Hot Pot

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

packaged tortillas

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

see snow mountain

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

roadside scene

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Dongda Mountain

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

roadside scene

9.25 Zuogong departed for Bomi, stopped from time to time on the road to take pictures of the beautiful scenery, and settled for lunch casually. In the afternoon, we arrived at the check-in point Ranwu Lake. At Ranwu Lake, we went down to the abandoned viewing platform (in the direction of Zayu) and went down to the lake. The scenery there is far superior to the landscape of a mature camp next to 318, and there is a mobile phone camera shooting various cannons. During this period, the photos of Tangshan playing the role of a great man pointing out the country have become classic memories; but the sun has already set in the west after Wuhu Lake, and we hurried on our way. , arrived in Bomi when it was dark; the whole city has also changed a lot, we found a B&B (Taoyuan. There are only 7 and 8 taels), if you don’t dare to try something new, you will have nothing to say all night.

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Panorama of Ranwu

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Group photo by the lake

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

On the opposite mountain, there is a big-horned elk grazing leisurely, and the crowd is watching.

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

roadside rest

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

accommodation

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Already drank Linzhi beer

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Those 2 fish for dinner are expensive

9.26 When I got up early in the morning, Master Kong had already climbed onto the roof and started to create. The Rizhao Jinshan that I hadn’t seen in Meili Snow Mountain was added here. , This kind of scene is easy to make a big movie, snow mountains, the sun, white clouds, blue sky, only Tibet is the most abundant…… After packing up, we will continue on the road after breakfast. Today’s goal is Zhongyu Township, the first check-in point to cross, We need to go through Yigong Township—Bagai Township—-Zhongyu Township; after passing through the Tongmai natural barrier (the former natural barrier is already accessible, and I admire China’s infrastructure construction from the bottom of my heart), we set foot on the road to Yigong Township The asphalt road, the beautiful scenery along the way makes us dizzying, snow mountains, lakes, virgin forests, grasslands, all kinds of scenery. Lunch was a bit troublesome. When we arrived at the restaurant near Yigong Tea Factory, we only had fried rice with eggs to make it a little faster. The chef was not free yet, so we asked us to do it ourselves. Master Chen volunteered to roll up his sleeves and started to do it. As a result, there were only 4 tomatoes and 3 eggs. , the ingredients are not enough… What should I do? The car that delivered the food just arrived, and we hurry up to get 6 bowls of egg fried rice… The boss charged 90 yuan for this lunch and sent a pot of tomato and egg soup. It is not a bad treatment for us. Eat When you are full, continue on your way.

We went to the gas station of Yigong Tea Factory to fill up the oil. According to the homework we did, there will be no fuel supply point in the subsequent crossing route. Of course, the private oil supply point is in Zhongyu. Later, I really used private oil, that is another story. The bad road finally started. It started immediately after leaving Yigong Township. It was time to test the vehicles and personnel; The car walked slowly up the rocky road along the Yigong Zangbo River; at around 5 pm, we overlooked Bagai Township from the top of the mountain; it was definitely a paradise; two traversers slowly entered the village, and the whole township was a There are many large truck drivers on the main road and the township; seeing the time is still early, we decided to arrive at Zhongyu tonight; bad road + dusty sky + road construction make up all of our journey, and the quality of the vehicles and personnel is just now , the Yigong Zangbo on the roadside is becoming narrower and narrower, the water flow is more and more turbulent, and many roadbeds are surrounded by cliffs. This section of the road is comparable to the unrepaired Bingchacha I walked through in 2013. At 9 o’clock in the evening we Entering Zhongyu Township in the dark, the road to the township is about 5 kilometers full of mud + big puddles; Zhongyu is a small place, as soon as we entered the village, the police from the police station and the joint defense team surrounded us, checked and registered our ID cards, and asked Where do we come from and where do we go? We said we came to travel and wanted to find a place to live. Under the guidance of the police, we lived in the township government opposite the police station in the dark. There is a poverty alleviation hotel in the township government (really go to poverty alleviation every night. 220 yuan per room, no electricity, no water); when I arrived in Zhongyu, I felt a bit time-traveled. After eating a bowl of noodles in the store, I couldn’t do personal hygiene, so I just lay down and fell asleep. In the second half of the night, the dog barked very loudly. I heard the police later. Don’t go out when you hear the dog barking so loudly in this kind of place at night. There are wild animals coming down the mountain. Fortunately, we live in a hotel and are safe.

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

bomi morning

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Rizhao Jinshan

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Bomi

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Tongmai Bridge

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Yi Gong Zangbo

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Residents of Yigong Township

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Yigong tea factory lunch spot

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Yigong Tea Factory Gas Station

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Yigong Township Grassland

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Traffic jam on Bagai Road

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Xanadu – Bagai Township

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Zhongyu aka Niwu

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

Poverty Alleviation Hotel

A Journey Through the Secret Realm of Eastern Tibet

More exciting, click: http://bbs.ucar.run/thread_14683971_1_1.htm