For the obsession in my heart, I went to the source of the Yellow River Kari Song (2)

Day 3: Xining – Yushu (about 796 kilometers, 12 hours driving)

1. After breakfast, take the Yugong Expressway through Gonghe County-Maduo County-Yushu Prefecture, and refuel once in Maduo County;

2. Arrive in Yushu Prefecture and check in at Himalaya Hotel without breakfast.

The whole journey is about 600 kilometers, passing through Kumbum Monastery, and the sunset glow of Xingxiu Sea is very beautiful. The Yugong Expressway with a speed limit of 80 kilometers on most sections is also covered with frozen soil sections, and the car will fly if it is not well controlled. 

Kumbum Temple: Also known as Ta’er Temple, it was founded in the tenth year of Ming Hongwu (1377). It is named after the Great Silver Pagoda built in the Dajinwa Temple to commemorate the founder of the Yellow Sect, Tsongkhapa. It is called “Gunben Xianbalin” in Tibetan, which means “the Maitreya Temple where a hundred thousand lions roar Buddha statues”. It is located in Xining City, Qinghai Province Rushaer Town, Huangzhong County, 25 kilometers southwest, is a national AAAAA-level tourist attraction, the Kumbum Monastery is the activity center of Tibetan Buddhism in Northwest China, and enjoys a high reputation in China and Southeast Asia. status. In the Ming Dynasty, the upper-level religious figures in the temple were granted titles many times. Emperor Kangxi of the Qing Dynasty bestowed a plaque of “Jing Shangjin Liang”, Emperor Qianlong bestowed the title of “Fanzong Temple” and Dajinwa Temple a “Vatican Teaching Fazhu” plaque. The third Dalai Lama, the fourth Dalai Lama, the fifth Dalai Lama, the seventh Dalai Lama, the thirteenth Dalai Lama, the fourteenth Dalai Lama and the sixth Panchen Lama, the ninth Panchen Lama and the tenth Panchen Lama, all performed in Kumbum Monastery. Had religious activities. Butter flowers, murals and duixiu are known as the “Three Wonders of Kumbum Art”. In addition, there are many Buddhist classics and academic monographs on history, literature, philosophy, medicine and legislation in the temple. The “Four Great Dharma Conferences”, a Buddhist activity held every year, are even more lively. The butter flower sculptures in Kumbum Monastery are also lifelike and well-known far and wide. Kumbum Monastery is one of the six major monasteries of the Gelug Sect (Yellow Sect) of Tibetan Buddhism in China, and it is also the leading scenic spot and historic site in Qinghai Province and a national key cultural relic protection unit.

Post-college dormitory of Tibetan medicine

Rich

Day 4: Local tour in Yushu

1. State Museum, Xinzhai Jiana Mani Stone Pile, Jiegu Temple

2. Ancient Tang and Tibetan Road, Princess Wencheng Temple, Yushu Earthquake Site

Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, an autonomous prefecture under the jurisdiction of Qinghai Province, means “relics” in Tibetan. It is the first ethnic minority autonomous prefecture established in Qinghai Province and the second in China; the terrain is high in the north and south, low in the middle, high in the west and low in the east; it is a typical alpine sexual climate. The total area of ​​the prefecture is 267,000 square kilometers, with 1 city and 5 counties under its jurisdiction; the total population in 2017 was 409,500. In Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, there are unique plateau natural landscapes and folk customs, including Yushu singing and dancing, Tibetan costumes and peculiar customs and customs, Princess Wencheng Temple and Buddhist temples of many sects, as well as stone piles and hillocks listed in Xinzhai Jiana Mani. There are Tsongkhapa Buddha statues in the temple hall, and there are three national nature reserves including “Three Rivers”, Longbao Beach and Hoh Xil. There are more than 40 scenic spots and scenic spots in the whole state for sightseeing. The folk customs of Yushu are uniquely charming, and there is a grand Yushu Horse Racing Festival here. In ancient times, Yushu was a land for yak farming in the Western Qiang; it belonged to the Supi Kingdom during the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties. In the Sui Dynasty, it was called “Nvguo”. Before and after the Sui Dynasty, it was under the jurisdiction of Supi and Domi. In the Tang Dynasty, it was Sun Boru of Tupan. In the Song Dynasty, it was the land of Nangqian, a small state under Lizhou. Jurisdiction. In the Ming Dynasty, it belonged to the Xuanwei Department of Duogansi. In the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, the heads of various ministries in Yushu were donated by the Heshuote Ministry of Qinghai Mongolia as Zhutaiji. In the Qing Dynasty, it was directly under the jurisdiction of the Qinghai Minister of Affairs. tribe.
At the beginning of the Republic of China, he was attached to Qinghai Office Chief, Xuanzheng was attached to Mengfan Xuanwei Envoy and Ganbian Ninghai Guardian Envoy. In the sixth year of the Republic of China (1917), Yushu Council was established, and in the eighteenth year of the Republic of China (1929), it was changed to Yushu County, which governs the entire territory of the autonomous prefecture. The three counties of Yushu, Nangqian, and Chengduo were set up, all under the jurisdiction of the Yushu Administrative Supervision Commissioner’s Office, and the system of thousands of households under the counties remained the same.

In October 1949, the Qinghai Provincial People’s Liberation Army Military and Political Committee Office of Special Commissioner in Yushu was established.

In 1949, a Yushu special area was established, and the agency was stationed in Yushu County. Jurisdiction over Yushu (in Jiegu), Chengduo (in Zhoujun), Nangqian (in Xiangda) 3 counties.

On December 25, 1951, the Yushu Special District was changed to the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Region, with jurisdiction over the two counties of Chengduo and Nangqian; the establishment of Yushu County was abolished. In 1952, the establishment of Yushu County was restored, led by the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Region. Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Region governs 3 counties.

In 1953, Zhaduo County was established by merging the western regions of Yushu and Nangqian counties; it governed 4 counties.

In 1954, the original Zado County was changed to Zaduo County (located in Yuri); part of Yushu County was established as Zhiduo County (located in Jiaji Bolog); Qumalai District, which was originally under the direct jurisdiction of the province, was changed to Qumalai County , included in the Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Region; jurisdiction over 6 counties.

In 1955, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Region was reorganized into Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, and the People’s Committee of the autonomous prefecture was stationed in Yushu County.

In 1959, part of the 4 counties of Yushu, Nangqian, Zaduo, and Zhiduo was established as Jiangnan County (on the south bank of the Yangtze River, stationed in Ganning Shengduo); part of the two counties of Chengduo and Zhiduo was established as Tianhe County (on the north bank of the Yangtze River, stationed in Karon Yun); governs 8 counties.

In 1960, the resident of Jiangnan County was moved from Jiangnan Ganningshengduo to Jiezong area.

In 1962, Jiangnan County was abolished and merged into Yushu County; Tianhe County was abolished and merged into Chengduo and Qumalai counties; Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture administered Yushu (in Jiegu), Chengduo (in Zhoujun), Nangqian (in Xiangda), Zaduo (located in Yuri), Zhiduo (located in Kaji Bolog), Qumalai (located in Sewugou) and other 6 counties. 

On July 3, 2013, with the approval of the State Council, it was agreed to abolish Yushu County and establish Yushu City at the county level, taking the administrative area of ​​Yushu County as the administrative area of ​​Yushu City. Yushu City is under the jurisdiction of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. 

Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is located at the source of the Three Rivers in the hinterland of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau in the southwest of Qinghai Province. The total area of ​​the prefecture is 267,000 square kilometers, and its geographical coordinates are between 89°27′-97°39′ east longitude and 31°45′-36°-10′ north latitude. It is connected to the Haixi Mongolian and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the north, and the border line is 724 kilometers long. It borders on the Bayingoleng Mongolian Autonomous Prefecture of Xinjiang in the northwest, and the border line is 180 kilometers long. It is connected with Guoluo Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in the east, and the border line is 240.6 kilometers long. It is adjacent to Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan Province in the southeast, and the border line is 176 kilometers long. Southwest borders Qamdo and Na districts of the Tibet Autonomous Prefecture, and the Qinghai-Tibet borderline is 2,385.85 kilometers long. 

Statue of King Gesar

Jiegu Temple:

Jiegu Temple is located in the east of Jiegu Town. It is famous in Tibetan areas of China for its magnificent architecture, numerous monks, rich cultural relics and many eminent monks and disciples. It is called “Jiegu Dunzhu Gong” in Tibetan, which means “Jiegu Yichengzhou”. Located in Beimuta Meima Mountain, Jiegu Town, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, it is a Sakya monastery of the original Zhawu tribe. According to legend, there was a Bon religion temple here a long time ago. By the end of the Yuan Dynasty, the Bon religion monastery no longer existed, but two small temples belonging to the Karma Kagyu sect (one of which is a nun temple), and the other built a Zhawutou The Red Palace. In the thirty-first year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty (1398), Dangqinwa Jiaang Xirao Gyaltsan (1376—?), the great lama of the Sakya Sect of Tibet, came here to preach and received the support of the head of Zhawu. The monks and nuns of the temple were forced to move to other places, and Dangqinwa built Jiegu Temple on the basis of Qulai’s buildings. The more famous ones are Lama Nangga, who is the author of 5 works including “Prajna Paramita”, Lama Caijiang is a famous doctor in contemporary Yushu; <Historical Cultural Relics of Tibetan Areas>> etc. On April 14, 2010, a magnitude 7.1 earthquake occurred in Yushu County, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province. The Jiegu Temple basically collapsed, and the situation is very serious. The Qinghai Provincial Bureau of Cultural Relics organizes experts to evaluate. After the evaluation, it depends on the situation. If it needs to be rebuilt, it will be rebuilt.

Jiegu Temple is located on Dongjiegu Mountain in Jiegu Town, Yushu. It is called “Jiegu Dunzhuleng” in Tibetan, which means “Jiegu Yichengzhou”. It is the main temple of the Sakya Sect in Qinghai Province. The main buildings include: 2 scripture halls , 220 monk houses, and the main building “Duwenzhou Gyatso” can accommodate 100 wow chanting. Lecture Institute, Jokhang Hall, Maitreya Hall, Gyana and Wenbao Living Buddha Temple all have their own characteristics. Here is the “biggest mani pile in the world”. The mani pile is made of mani stones engraved with the six-character mantra “Ah Mani Padme Moo”, which translates into Chinese as “Ah! Holy Buddha on the lotus seat! Oh!” Some mani stones are also engraved with scriptures or Buddha statues, and countless “mani stones” are arranged together to form a series of sutra stone walls. There are 260 million Mani stones, forming a Mani stone city. Colored sutra sails with scriptures and Buddha statues printed on the stone walls and alleys are hung, and a red pagoda is erected in the center of the stone city. Jiegu Temple is located in the east of Jiegu Town. It is famous in the Tibetan area of ​​my country for its magnificent architecture, numerous monks, rich cultural relics, and many eminent monks and disciples. The halls and monk houses are well arranged, towering above the hills. The mani stone mounds of Jiegu Temple are famous all over the world. The first living Buddha Ghana settled in Xinzhai Village, East of Zhendong in his later years, and built mani mounds here, known as “Jiana Mani Heap” and “Xinzhai Mani Heap”. . Over the past 200 years, more than 2.5 billion mani stones have been accumulated, which can be called “the largest mani pile in the world” and has become an excellent representative of Tibetan religious culture.

The temple is built on the mountain, and the halls and monks’ houses are scattered. Historically, it has always been the main temple of the Sakya Sect in the northern area of ​​Yushu. On December 1st of the Tibetan calendar in 1937, the ninth Panchen Lama Chogyi Nyima passed away here. Gana Buddha is the largest living Buddha in the temple and has a close relationship with the mainland, so it is called “Jana Zhugu” (meaning Han living Buddha). Make Yushu a hometown of singing and dancing.

Xinzhai Jiana Mani Stone Pile

Xinzhai Mani Stone Pile is located in Xinzhai Village, Jiegu Town, where the capital of Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture is located in Qinghai Province, with an altitude of more than 3,600 meters and a history of 300 years. Manidui is magnificent and the scale is the largest in the world. At the same time, it is known as “the largest place for praying and wishing in the world”. The number of mani stones in it is as many as billions. The Ghana Mani Stone was once known as a Buddhist holy place “comparable to the Holy Land Lhasa”, and is famous in “Han, Tibet, and Hall areas”. At present, the total number of mani stones is as many as 2.5 billion. According to legend, the Xinzhai Gyana Mani Stone Pile was founded by the first Tibetan Buddhist eminent monk, Dode Songchopawang. Now it has formed a 300-meter-long east-west, north-south width of 80 meters, 4 meters high, and covers an area of ​​24,000 square meters. Square meters, the Stone Classic Wonder City contains 2.5 billion mani stones. Mani stones are made by Tibetan people who engrave scriptures, various Buddha statues and auspicious patterns on ordinary white stones, and decorate them with colorful colors. Pious monks and believers continue to pile up stone scriptures, and their scale continues to expand over time. Mani stone is a product of Tibetan Buddhist culture. Integrating religion and folk art, it is an extension of nature worship, a re-creation of megalithic culture, and a product of the integration of Ben religion and Buddhist culture. In Tibetan areas, all kinds of mani stones and piles of mani stones of different sizes can be seen everywhere. However, there are not many that are as large-scale and have a long history as Xinzhai Mani Stone City. Compared with other large-scale Buddhist monuments, the biggest difference between the Xinzhai Jiamani stone pile is that the Xinzhai Jiamani stone pile has the current scale (2.6 billion mani stones engraved with various scriptures). It is a kind of folk spontaneous behavior, that is to say, every time believers pray and make a wish, they will add a few pieces of mani stones to form a huge “ocean” of Buddhist scriptures covering an area of ​​24,000 square meters and a height of about three meters. So what is the driving force behind the formation of this folk fanaticism? There is only one reason – this is a magical holy place for praying and making wishes.

Apart from other things, the “Buddha’s eye” popular in the Kangba area is the most distinctive way of praying and wishing. People consecrate the utensils in their homes together with the mani stones and then donate the mani stones to the Jiana mani stone pile. This artifact is called “Buddha’s eye” or “Songjixin”. This kind of artifact has the blessing power of the Gyana Mani stone pile and is regarded as a fetish; there are also some Tibetan folk witchcraft such as “ka”, Whenever there is a villain in the family, people will engrave this kind of mani stone and put it in a crowded place to tell the villain to “shut up”. There are countless similar miracles. Historically, the Ghana Mani Stone was once known as a Buddhist holy place “comparable to the Holy Land Lhasa”, famous in the “Han, Tibet, and Hall areas”. In January 2005, it was appraised by the Shanghai World Guinness Headquarters as “the largest mani stone pile” and won the Guinness certificate, and the title of “the world’s largest mani stone pile” began.

“Mani stone is an important part of Tibetan carving art, that is, for the purpose of propagating, passing on, believing in and practicing Dharma, Buddhist scriptures, mantras, symbols, Buddha statues, etc. are carved on stones, so that the Dharma can last forever. , strong and indestructible, and reflect the meaning of things.” Luo Sangkaizhu, a professor at the Tibetan Institute of Minzu University of China, said, “The mani stones in Xinzhai, Yushu are famous all over the world for their long history, various types, and amazing quantities. Many valuable cultural arts were created during people’s religious activities.” 

The Sanjiangyuan Monument, and the Tang Monk’s Sutra-drying Platform

Sanjiangyuan Monument 3 bridges along the Tongtian River

Tang monk’s scripture drying platform

Yushu Earthquake Memorial Hall

Princess Wencheng Temple: Also known as “Gasa Princess Temple”, it is said that it was built by Tibetans in the Tang Dynasty to commemorate Princess Wencheng. It is located in Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, Qinghai Province, and is located in the southeastern part of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. It was built in the Tang Dynasty and has a history of more than 1,300 years. cultural relics protection unit. It has been listed as a national cultural relic protection unit. Princess Wencheng Temple, also known as the Dari Tathagata Buddhist Hall, was built in the Tang Dynasty and has a history of more than 1,300 years. It is located in Beinagou, Batang Township, Jiegu Town, Yushu County, Yushu Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture, 20 kilometers away from Jiegu Town and 838 kilometers away from Xining. kilometer. It is one of the important cultural relics of the Tang-Fan ancient road, and it is a provincial-level key cultural relic protection unit in Qinghai Province. The Temple of Princess Wencheng faces south, facing the stream, and built on the cliff, with ingenious design. There is a stele next to the temple gate, which records the history of the construction of Princess Wencheng Temple. There are nine relief Buddha statues chiseled on the rock wall directly above the hall in the temple, and the main Buddha statue in the center is the Dainichi Tathagata Buddha statue. The Tathagata Buddha statue is 7.3 meters high, with a lifelike expression, dignified and kind.
Princess Wencheng Temple is located on the Bank of Tongtian River, about 20 kilometers south of Jieshi Town, Yushu County, Qinghai Province. According to legend, it was built by Tibetans in the Tang Dynasty to commemorate Princess Wencheng. Under the rock wall directly above the temple, there are nine huge Buddha statues in relief. In the middle of the lotus seat is a main Buddha statue about 7.3 meters high. On both sides of the main Buddha statue, there are four servant Buddha statues about 4 meters high standing on small lotus pedestals. All are exquisitely carved, simple and vivid in shape, and dignified, reflecting the superb level of carving technology in the Tang Dynasty. There are two living Buddha portraits on the walls on both sides of the temple. There are also murals on the wall opposite the statues with bamboo shoots, pomegranates, cotton, mirrors and steamed buns, which record the deeds of Princess Wencheng teaching the local Tibetan people to farm and weave. The temple faces the stream and leans against the high mountains, hidden among the green pines and cypresses. It is a place of worship and sightseeing for Tibetan Buddhists and tourists from home and abroad.

According to legend, after meeting Princess Wencheng and Songtsan Gampo at Zaling Lake, they climbed over the majestic Bayan Har Mountain, crossed the torrenting Tongtian River, and arrived at Bainagou in Yushu. Princess Wencheng was very happy that her party could safely pass through the natural barrier Bayan Harshan and the ancient Tianhe River. She thought it was the result of the help of the gods. He led the craftsmen and carved dozens of Buddha statues and many pagodas on the rock wall of Bainagou. This action of Princess Wencheng greatly moved the mountain god of Bayan Har Mountain and the Dragon King of Tongtian River. The next day, when Princess Wencheng climbed to the top of Bainagou Mountain, she was suddenly welcomed by the mountain god and the Dragon King very unusually.
At that time, the mountain gods cut down birches and cypresses, wove them into rainbow gates, and flew them over Bainagou. They cleared the mountain roads, picked flowers, paved a green avenue leading directly to the foot of the mountain, and filled the roads with golden pots and silver tripods. With piles of mulberry smoke, the mountain god led thousands of birds and beasts to welcome; at the foot of the mountain, the dragon king set up tents, slaughtered cattle and sheep, prepared wine for drinking, and greeted the princess. During the banquet, hundreds of dragon girls sang and danced to cheer her up; Mizoguchi, the leaders, monks and countless people knelt down to greet her, just like welcoming gods down to earth.

So far, the moving scene of Princess Wencheng passing by has been circulating among the local Tibetan people. It is said that Bainagou is the place where Princess Wencheng stayed the longest on her way to marry Tubo. Here, the local Tibetan leaders and the masses held the first very grand and warm welcome ceremony for the princess since she entered the territory of Tubo. Princess Wencheng was deeply moved when she saw the hospitality of the Tibetan people. In order to thank and repay the local Tibetan people, Princess Wencheng decided to stay here for more days to spread the culture of the Han people in the Central Plains to the Tibetan people. 

After Princess Wencheng lived in Bainagou, she personally led craftsmen and people to carve dozens of Buddha statues, large and small pagodas, and important scriptures on the cliffs in the valley. The nine Buddha statues in the temple are said to be the relics left over from that time. At that time, Princess Wencheng also wrote 16 lines of eulogy in regular Chinese characters on the rock wall on the right side of the Buddha statue, and Tunmi Sangbuza, the inventor of ancient Tibetan, wrote 18 lines of “Gaqia” (that is, explanation) on the left side. Unfortunately, most of these precious handwritings have been eroded by wind and rain, making them incomplete and difficult to identify.

After Princess Wencheng left, monks and faithful men and women from far and near came to Bainagou to watch and worship. Both stones and stones are engraved with Buddha images and scriptures. Later, it was said that due to Princess Wencheng’s miraculous good fortune and merits, all the rocky cliffs and stones of different sizes in Bainagou appeared like the wishful incarnation of Sakyamuni and various Buddha statues and scriptures. Mortal fetuses cannot be identified, so the local people dare not use the stones here easily. One year, several eminent monks from Lhasa passed by Bainagou. They wanted to boil water and cook here, so they split up to find some stones for the pot. However, several people ran all over the ravine, searched every stone, and found Buddha statues and scriptures of different sizes engraved on it, so they had to give up in the end. After returning to Tibet, these monks preached that Bainagou is a truly holy place, and anyone who wants to make a pilgrimage should go to Bainagou. Therefore, later many Tibetans traveled thousands of miles and took pains to come to Bainagou to worship.

Princess Wencheng helped the local Tibetan people learn to drive cattle to open up wasteland, plow and sow seeds, build stones and walls, cut wood to build houses, spin yarn and weave carpets, chisel stones and polish, sing and dance, etc. through her own teachings. So far, on the hillside opposite Bainagou, there are still fields where the princess taught people to open up wasteland and farm land. Therefore, in the minds of the local Tibetan people, Princess Wencheng is the goddess of the Bodhisattva in the sky, and the objects left by the princess are precious sacred objects, and they have tried their best to protect them.

Day 6: Qumalai County – the source of Kariqu – Zhaling Lake – Niutou Monument – Ering Lake – Maduoling Township Inn (moving about 505 kilometers)

1. Get up early in the morning and set off after breakfast. Qumalai County – the source of Kariqu is 191 kilometers away.

2. Plan to visit Zaling Lake-Niutou Monument-Eling Lake and take pictures. In fact, because I wasted 2 hours when I went out too late in the morning, it was a pity that I only saw the afterglow when I arrived at the Two Lakes and One Monument.

3. Arrive at the Maduoling Township Inn.

This day was very long, because the road conditions were not very good, and it was snowing all the time. I used the Aowei satellite map, the hand map and the Tencent map in my car. Synchronized navigation finally found the Yellow River that I had reached in 2017 in the heavy snow. Source Monument.

I will add the details later.