Gang Rinpoche, one of the “Top Ten Most Beautiful Mountains in China” selected by “Chinese National Geography”. The crown is covered with ice and snow, crystal clear and white, and the hard horizontal textured rock formations form a pyramid-like ladder. On the vast Baga Plain, Gang Rinpoche held his head high, possessing a holiness and arrogance unmatched by the world.
Gang Rinpoche is also a sacred mountain recognized by Tibetan Buddhism, Bon religion, Hinduism and ancient Jainism. There are countless legends about her.
Every year, believers from all over the world come in droves to walk around the holy mountain and worship. — “Kang Rinpoche’s Story of Turning Mountains”. Author: Yan Hai
Turning around the mountain is divided into inner turning and outer turning. The religious threshold for turning inward is very high, and you must turn outward 13 times before you can obtain the qualification for turning inward to the holy mountain. When we talk about turning around the mountain, we usually refer to turning outside. The road to turn around the mountain is about 56 kilometers long and takes 2-3 days.
The road to the mountain is full of wind, frost, snow and rain, and the road is long and obstructed. This is a test of spirit, physical strength, will and endurance. This is also a visual and spiritual journey. During physical training, you can see unique scenery and gain a brand new self.
1. Three temples
Qugu Temple
Built in the 13th century by Guo Cangba, the founder of the Drukpa Kagyu Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, it is located at a high place on the west side of the canyon rock wall, secretly attached to the rock background. From Qugu Temple, you can see Gang Rinpoche’s stunning west wall.
There is an unrecognizable hidden elephant cave under the temple, which is the place where Rinpoche Rinpoche lived when he practiced in Gang Rinpoche. The main worship Buddha of Qugu Temple is Qugu Buddha. Qugu, translated into Chinese, means “naturally generated Dharmakaya of ultimate fruition through practice”.
During the high season of pilgrimage, some temporary tents will be set up on the other side of the river under the temple to sell food (instant noodles and snacks) and drinking water.
Zheripu Temple (also known as “Zherepu Temple”, “Zherepu Temple”)
Zheripu Monastery, located on the mountain on the north side of the Laqu River, has an excellent location, directly facing the magnificent northern wall of Gang Rinpoche. The Jinshan Mountain under the sunshine in the morning, the north wall under the blue sky at noon and the moonlight at night are all breathtakingly beautiful.
Zheripu Temple is the place where Guo Cangba practiced. It is said that he was the first to discover the route around the mountain. There is Guo Cangba’s practice cave in the temple, and the whole temple is built around the practice cave, and the rock wall above the cave has the imprint of Guo Cangba’s head.
The temple provides basic accommodation. In front of the Zheripu Temple, there is also Xishapangma Hotel.
Zunzupu Temple (also known as “Zunzhuipu Temple”, “Zhongzhepu Temple”)
The temple is located in the east of the sacred mountain, facing east from west, with scattered heights and distinct priorities. The name of the temple comes from the “Huanshu Cave” behind the Dajing Hall. It is said that Milarepa conjured a cave here with magic, and left many hand, foot and head prints in it.
There are simple hotels in the temple. During the high season of pilgrimage every year, there are many people in this place.
2. 360° Gang Rinpoche
Walking around the holy mountain allows you to see Gang Rinpoche from every angle. You approach her step by step, and the holy mountain seems out of reach. Until I came to her feet, looking up at her holy face, the crystal-like ice wall was shining brightly.
Best Viewing Spot: Zheripu Temple
The temple is facing the shocking north wall of Gang Rinpoche, and the pyramid-like ice wall looks like a Buddha sitting on a lotus throne.
Best shooting spot: Gang Rinpoche sunrise
If you want to take photos of Mount Kailash shining in the sunshine, you should stay at Zheripu Monastery the night before and leave early the next morning. The best sunrise of Jinshan Mountain is halfway over the Zhuomala Pass, when the mountain is facing the east.
3. A lake
Tuojicuo (Lake of Mercy)
Tuojicuo is as green as jade. This small lake can be seen from Zhuomala Pass. There are many legends about her. It is said that this is the bathing pool of the dakini. Hinduism believes that this is the bath of the goddess Uma. If you are not afraid of the difficult road, you can also go down to the lake. The lake water reflects the rocks, which is another kind of scenery.
4. Glacier rivers
There are 8 glaciers around Gang Rinpoche, like 8 lotus flowers surrounding the main peak. Melt water from glaciers flows down and merges into rivers. The river flows to the east, south, west and north. People named the four rivers with four kinds of gods in heaven, namely horse, lion, elephant and peacock.
The Maquan River is the source of the Yarlung Zangbo River, the Kongque River is the source of the Ganges, and the Xiangquan River and Shiquan River are the sources of the Indus River. Gang Rinpoche also has the reputation of “the source of ten thousand waters”.
Walking in the valley, Gang Rinpoche’s dazzling face is high above, and the rushing river is gurgling below.
5. Miracles
There are various miracles and legends on the road around the mountain. Various versions of legends add to the mystery of Mount Kailash. When you are looking for these miracles, you can temporarily slow down your tired body in the imagination of ancient times.
three fixed nails
That is, the Buddha’s footprints stabilize the sacred mountain here.
Traces of the contest between Milarepa and Narobenqiong
On the way around the mountain, there are traces of the contest between Milarepa and Naruobenqiong everywhere. Legend has it that the two decide who can practice in Gang Rinpoche and Manasarovar according to their mana. Trying to turn around the lake, Naruobenqiong crossed the holy lake in one step, and Milarepa covered the entire lake with his body.
The two competed to turn around the mountain, starting from the opposite direction, and met at the Zhuomala Pass, no distinction was made. Later, Naruobenqiong proposed that the first person to reach Mount Kailash on the day of the fifteenth month will be the winner. On that day, Naruobenqiong flew to the summit on the magic drum, but Milarepa was not seen. He was full of doubts and did not move forward with all his strength. But Milarepa took the first ray of the sun to reach the peak in an instant, and Naruobenqiong was so startled that he rolled down from the southern slope of the holy mountain, leaving a deep ravine that can still be seen today.
King Gesar’s saddle stone
From the Qugu Temple, along the Lhaqu Zangbo River Valley for about 4.5 kilometers, there is a saddle-shaped stone. The saddle-shaped mountain, this saddle stone, is the projection of this mountain. According to folklore, a pregnant woman climbs on the saddle and rides down. If she comes down from the right side, she can give birth to a girl, and if she comes down from the left side, she can give birth to a boy.
Dolma Stone
The highest point on the Zhuanshan Road is the Zhuomala Pass, where the prayer flags are flying. There is a statue of Tara engraved on a big stone, which is Zhuoma Stone.
Legend has it that Guo Cangba opened up a route to turn around the mountain and lost his way in the valley of the Lion Goddess. Then he was led back to the correct route by 21 wolves. protection god. After reaching the mountain pass, 21 wolves merged into one, and then turned into Zhuoma Stone.
Believers will leave coins, clothes, teeth and other items covered with ghee here. Pilgrims will walk around it, bend over and pass under the prayer flags, chanting scriptures in their mouths.
Suggestions for the mountain itinerary
One-day itinerary : suitable for local mountain climbers or a few hikers (15-18 hours for the whole journey)
* Depart from 5:00-6:00 in the morning
* Arrive at Zheripu Temple around 12:00 noon
* At about 4:00 p.m., climb to the highest point of Zhuomala Pass
* Return around 22:00 before dark
Two-day itinerary : suitable for energetic people
Day1: Tarqin-Zheripu Temple (22 kilometers, 6-10 hours)
* 9:00 – 9:30 depart after breakfast
* Climbing for about 1 hour, you can see colorful prayer flags at the top of the hill
* Go down the mountain for about 1 hour and arrive at the stupa (celestial burial ground)
* Walk along the Laqu River, about 3-4 hours later, you will arrive at Zheripu Monastery
* Stay at Zheripu Temple at night, ranging from 30-120 yuan.
Day2: Zheripu Temple – Tarqin (34 km, 9-14 hours)
* Start climbing at around 8:00, this section is the most difficult section
* After 3-4 hours, climb to the Zhuomala Pass, and you will see a sea of prayer flags
* Go down the mountain for 1 hour, and you can rest at the first tent rest point under the mountain
* Continue for 2-3 hours to Zunzupu Temple, with two resting points in the middle
* 3-4 hours down the mountain road, back to Tarqin
Three-day itinerary : suitable for ramblers or mountain climbers with the elderly and children
Day1: Tarqin-Zheripu Temple (22 km)
Day2: Zheripu Temple – Zunzupu Temple (22 kilometers)
Day3: Zunzupu Temple – Tarqin (12 km)
Pictures and texts from: Shanxi Pilgrim Adventure Travel Club.
