I have been longing for the “painting village” in Anhui for a long time. After one autumn, I have the opportunity to visit this time. Being in it is like falling into a landscape painting, one step at a time.
The beauty of Hongcun’s independence
It was already evening when we arrived at Hongcun. Entering the village from the gate is the South Lake. Although the lake in late autumn is not as vibrant as the green willows and green lotuses, it is more tranquil. Crossing the painted bridge and walking into the alley, the red lanterns under the eaves have been lit, and the soft lights sprinkled on the bluestone road, making the whole village look extra gentle. Tourists in twos and threes shuttle between the deep alleys, adding a little activity to the village on this rainy night.
The sleeping village wakes up next to the steaming breakfast stall. The four corners of the horse’s head wall stand tall and upturned, black and white shine, patchwork, showing the charm of Hui style. Stroll along the wide or narrow alleys to the moon marsh. The half-moon design warns future generations that “when the moon is full, it is bad.” The surface of the pond is as horizontal as a mirror, surrounded by bluestones, light walls and thick tiles are arranged in an orderly manner, reflected in the clear pond, like a beautiful ink painting.
In the middle of the north side of the moon marsh is the Wang’s ancestral hall. Across the threshold, there is a magnificent gate tower in front of you, with three-story cornices above it, a dragon head and a fish tail, and the four big characters “Shide Faxiang” are in the center. Passing through the patio and entering the main hall, the bucket arches, beam frames, and shuttle columns are all constructed of ginkgo wood, and the carvings are exquisite and natural. There are many kinds of wood carvings and stone carvings. Every pattern and every detail represents a profound meaning and a wish for future generations.
Hongcun’s tourism was developed earlier, with the blessing of the world cultural heritage, as well as the veritable scenery and humanities. This is the charm of Hongcun itself. In recent years, Hongcun has enlarged its rural characteristics. , each inn has a literary name. The inn we stayed in is called “Occasionally”, and the boss will go outside the scenic area to receive the reception. The inn is small and decorated with wood, with red lanterns hanging outside the door, and a bookshelf full of various books. I live in a double bed room on the second floor called “Xiaohe”. The room is relatively spacious, with a sofa and coffee table. Although it is not particularly high-end and comfortable, it is warm and elegant.
A spring stream meanders along the terrain at the foot of the alley wall, runs through the whole village, walks along the water, walks through the winding and deep alleys, passes the high walls that have gone through the years, and passes the food stalls selling Maotofu. Passing by the easel for sketching at the corner of the alley, and passing by the fresh and elegant courtyards, it seems to be walking into a dream far away from the secular world.
Tachuan’s Pastoral Fields That Can’t Be Disturbed
Mid-November is the best time to enjoy autumn in Tachuan. I rented a small electric bike and rode northeast along Y102 from Hongcun. In the late autumn season and the rainy weather, the wind that swept across the face was already a little chilly. The scenery along the way began to change slowly. The gorgeous redwoods on both sides of the road were neatly arranged, stretching forward and blending at the bend. Through the shade of the forest, there is a wilderness with a few red and green fir trees scattered, and a quiet lake lies not far away. After crossing the bridge, you will officially enter the Tachuan border area. The ten-mile radius is full of forests, and you can’t help stopping the car several times to take pictures.
There are layers of tallow trees on the edge of the open field. After the frost, it turns from green to yellow, from yellow to red, thick and light, deep and light, and colorful. Not far ahead is this charming mountain village. The village is not big, with 20 or 30 ancient buildings built by the mountains, and it is very quiet. After an autumn rain, a thin layer of mist hangs over the cornices of the mountains. Behind the house in front of the mountain, in the field, vermilion tallow tree leaves, bright yellow ginkgo leaves, half green and half yellow mulberry leaves, and some dead wood are dotted among them. On the side is a cluster of lush bamboo seas, and the autumn scenery of Tachuan is such an idyllic picture that makes people linger and forget to return.
The farmers in the village independently run the inn, and there is an endless stream of tourists in the village, standing in the distance and gazing at the fireworks of life, before setting off again for a long time. I wanted to go for a walk on the farmland of Qianmo, but I heard from the locals that the scenery of Tachuan is more beautiful from a distance, so I don’t need to be disturbed, so I gave up. Seeing that there are still people working in the fields, when they want to come to leisure, the villagers here still maintain the original farming way of life, but this glimpse of autumn is very busy.
Precipitation of Xidi Hui School Unique Rhyme
The night in Xidi is extremely cold, and it is already late at night when we stay in “Hu Mansion”, just to allow more time to feel the atmosphere of this village.
After the rainy night, the weather turned better, but the temperature dropped. In the early morning, I was shivering in the quiet narrow alley. After breakfast in a small shop with simple furnishings, we headed towards the entrance of the village. An ancient archway with a height of more than ten meters, which has been weathered but still magnificent stands here. It was built in the sixth year of Wanli in the Ming Dynasty. Carefully look at every detail of Hu Wenguang’s Governor’s Archway. The marble carvings are simple and exquisite. There are free tour guides in Xidi Scenic Area. They carefully explain the details of these buildings. The word “En Rong” is on the top of the main building plaque. , Eight Immortals, and so on, every place shows the glory of the Hu family.
The space of the village is flexible, the building tone is simple and elegant, and the design and layout of the lanes and buildings are coordinated and patchwork. Stepping into the village, the alleys are very narrow, some of which can only allow one person to walk through, the walls are high and the alleys are deep, criss-crossing, like being in a maze, you can’t tell the direction. Residential houses are all white-walled and blue-tiled horse-head walls, mostly wooden structures, brick walls are maintained, wood carvings, stone carvings, brick carvings are decorated, tall houses and deep wells, comfortable and elegant. Some have been through vicissitudes for a long time, and the walls are already mottled, with wrinkles full of stories.
This is the place where the history of Huizhou architecture is the deepest. Among the villages in Huizhou, the most magnificent building towering above the residential buildings is the ancestral hall. The Hu’s Ancestral Hall in Xidi was first built in the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty, and was later destroyed by a fire. The current building was rebuilt during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. The gate tower of Jing’ai Hall has cornices and corners. As soon as you enter the door, there is a rectangular courtyard. In the back hall of Jing’ai Hall is hung the word “filial piety” written by Zhu Xi, a Neo-Confucianist in the Southern Song Dynasty, which is a place for clan and family precepts. The entire ancestral hall has a simple and old tone. Listening to the tour guide telling the stories of the owners of different halls, I feel emotional when savoring the charm of history.
Hui-style architecture has always maintained a quaint, simple, and rich artistic style. Just like in Wu Guanzhong’s paintings, with just a few strokes, the charm of Hui-style architecture has been smudged. Compared with Hongcun, the beauty of Xidi is more introverted. There are no modern restaurants and bars here. They are all developed by borrowing from the past. The buildings of homestays and restaurants are all integrated into the old style, giving people a natural and unique sense of difference. This is probably the The reason why this village is uniquely beautiful.
Conclusion: Although I only walked through these two or three villages, I felt the traces left by the quaint Huizhou culture, history, architecture, folk customs, etiquette, these bits and pieces are still hidden in today’s Huizhou villages, and have not been washed away by the crowds from outside , is also its commendable place. Moreover, each village adjacent to each other has its own tourism characteristics, which also provides a good reference for today’s rural tourism. Naturally, this trip also went to the world-famous Huangshan Mountain. There is a hidden cave between the clouds and mists. On the way, I met Pingshan Mountain. Many students sketched there. This is probably the place where artists want to keep the beauty.