sequence
The current forum is very embarrassing, there are not many nutritious posts, and even the posts recommended by the e-family homepage are very watery. The popularity is low, but there are many bugs, which cannot be solved in time, which seems to form a vicious circle.
It’s hard for me to decide how to post on the e-family forum (except for technical posts), mainly focus on travel notes, strategies, routes, landscapes, and humanities, to provide references for riders (take Mafengwo as an example), or simply record the scene, But can’t provide feasible solutions for riders? This is a serious problem!
I do content in my unit, and of course I tend to the former. In the past, as a magazine reporter, the ultimate goal was to do a good job of content, collect materials, come up with a neutral point of view, attract readers, and give guidance and reference.
I subscribe to “Huaxia Geography” every year, and I can find many travel clues from those scientific and educational articles, but this requires a lot of space, readers have less and less time, and there are more and more ways to obtain information. Therefore, the magazine is not popular now, and even the leaders don’t like to see it.
Helpless can only gradually transform, and turn to the development of so-called new media. The ultimate goal of new media is traffic, and traffic is equivalent to income, which cannot be brought by in-depth articles. Our traditional magazines now basically only have 2-3 people, publishing papers, writing news, and relying on old customers with strong relationships to pay some advertising fees, and most of the investment of customers has shifted to new media that is updated quickly.
The e-family forum also faces this problem, and it is more serious. There are almost no in-depth posts – old friends are lost; turning to new media, there is no impetuous content that can bring traffic, copying the website – new friends do not come, resulting in more and more watery content and poor clicks.
Now most of the people who go to the e-clan are old friends. They come to see it every few days, and they come back disappointed. When they need it, they look up old posts.
If you don’t make big changes and start over (either make the lightest and most impetuous content, or make the heaviest and deepest content. In short, I don’t believe that the e-family makes functional products), this is a deadlock, and it needs Use time to wash away, those who survive will continue to live, and those who cannot survive, haha.
It is estimated that it is difficult for this post to get on the home page.
Gossip is off the table. During the Spring Festival this year, my father and wife and I spent 18 days (from February 1st to February 17th) to complete our first trip to Xinjiang.
This travel note will record this trip from different dimensions of vehicle, road, scenery, food, lodging, money, and miscellaneous. refer to.
track of this trip
Mileage of this trip
car
An old car in 2008 with a mileage of 220,000 kilometers. The kyb gray bucket that had been used for six or seven years before departure leaked oil, and I replaced it with the same model; the appearance of the car has been restored, and the auxiliary lights have been removed; the tires are Cooper st maxx, and I have run 100,000 kilometers. The front tire pressure is 3.0, and I plan to replace it with the same model or BFGoodrich this year; the distributor was replaced with a dismantled part last year, and the trunk has a dismantled part; change the oil, test the antifreeze, add glass water, etc. before departure. Cold to prepare.
There was no trouble throughout the trip, the space for 3 people was just right, and the trunk was basically full of luggage, but it did not affect the line of sight. The nighttime temperature in Hemu is about minus 30°, and the car starts once in the morning; Kanas is colder, it is estimated to be close to minus 40°, the door locks are frozen, and the door lock does not reset when opened, and the door cannot be closed. Relatively reluctant, but I have always been confident in listening to the sound. Be sure to step on the clutch to start the ignition, and the accelerator to the end if necessary.
In addition, on the road from Shanshan to Lop Nur Town, after the oil lamp was on, he ran another 60 kilometers, breaking his own record. When refueling, 67 liters were added, which is 4 liters more than when the oil light was on in the past, and it should be able to run again. I realized that there might be a problem of insufficient oil, and then drove at a constant speed. The speed was controlled at 80-100 per hour, and I felt very fuel-efficient.
Note: To travel from Shanshan to Lop Nur, you have to run the highway for tens of kilometers first. After getting off the highway, there are gas stations on the national and provincial highways, just fill up. I didn’t refill it because I filled it up in Shanshan the day before, and I ran more aggressively at high speed for dozens of kilometers, 140-150, which was more fuel-intensive.
Four-wheel drive: The snow road from Burqin to Hemu is more than 100 kilometers. The whole journey is high and the four are not picked. The anti-skid performance is reliable.
Finally, an important message: when going to Hemu and Kanas in winter, non-four-wheel drive vehicles are prohibited from passing, and sometimes the snow chains will be checked.
Paladin has been with me for 8 years, and I have a lot of affection for it. My car is a national 4 car, and it should be able to drive for a few more years. I want to be with it forever.
The older the more reliable partner
road
The principle of this trip is: don’t go wrong. To be honest, there is nothing to do except Lop Nur (you will involuntarily follow the rules when traveling in Xinjiang). Both sides of Hami Devil City and Qaidam Basin can be descended, but they are all hard sand, so there is no serious problem. Just follow other people’s tire tracks and don’t walk too far.
When I went there, I took the G7. It didn’t matter when I arrived at Linhe from Beijing. After passing Baotou, there were fewer cars, and it went smoothly. On the second day, it was more than 1300 kilometers from Linhe to Hami, which was very cool. Shuang means that the feet are very sore, there are few cars, and there are no more than 10 cars in the same direction, but the wind is really strong. If you keep the accelerator to the end, you can drive to 120-130, and the fuel consumption per 100 kilometers is 18-20 (usually in the urban area. I’m under 12).
One tank of fuel can run less than 400 kilometers, you can imagine the situation of Jinchang. On this day, you must refill at every gas station. There are several service areas that seem to be separated by as little as 200 kilometers. You can’t ignore it. You can pay on WeChat throughout the journey.
When I came back, I checked the violations: none. The experience I provide is to drive AutoNavi all the way, and just follow AutoNavi’s instructions to slow down. There is almost no speed measurement throughout the entire process of passing Linhe in Inner Mongolia. There may be more restrictions in Xinjiang, but it is not outrageous.
What is more annoying is the return trip to Shaanxi and Shanxi, where the speed measurement is frequent, and there are many speed measurements at 5 and 60 kilometers, because it is a mountainous area, there are more tunnels, and the speed limit in many places is 70, which seriously affects the efficiency.
The highway conditions in Xinjiang are average, and there are many construction sites, especially around Urumqi. However, some national highways are easy to walk, with fewer cars and less speed limits. When we returned to Urumqi from Karamay, in order to reach a place where we could have lunch, we took the national road through Shihezi, and the road was in good condition.
From Kanas back to Burqin, the mountain road was blocked by an avalanche for 2 hours. The snow over 2 meters high and 10 meters long blocked the road. Finally, the snow removal truck arrived in 5 minutes.
Let me talk about Lop Nur: Originally, after coming out of Kanas, I planned to go back to Urumqi for a rest, and then go to Dunhuang and Qinghai to return to Beijing. I found that there were still 2-3 days to spare, so I studied other routes and looked at the plans of Two Lakes and One Monument, Gannan, and Animaqing respectively.
Later, a relative recommended to take the road of Lop Nur, because they took Qiemo and Ruoqiang when traveling in southern Xinjiang, and then followed the edge of Lop Nur to Huatugou. If I can go from the direction of Hami (or Shanshan) first Arrive at Lop Nur Town, then take S235 Provincial Highway to G315 National Highway, at least from the map, the trajectory is through Lop Nur. If you are lucky and enter the center of the lake, you can really enjoy it for a few years when you come back.
Why not “cross” no man’s land so reasonably and legally? So I consulted Kuaiye again (I have to look for him on the road every time), he said that this road has no risk, but from the perspective of the landscape, he also suggested that I go to Ruoqiang first and take the road that my relatives took. The road from the edge of Lop Nur to Huatugou, but at that time, any landscape could not overcome vanity, and after a long 2 seconds of consideration, a decision was made.
Looking through the posts and travel notes, I feel that I am not the most vain person. People who have walked this road have all exaggerated the difficulty. Now I give an official conclusion: as long as it is an AT tire, there is no difficulty. The saline-alkali road in front is deeply rutted, just go slowly. On the gravel road behind, there is no problem at 80 hrs. Walking while playing (nothing to play), half a day is enough.
G7 road section from Linhe to Hami, Inner Mongolia
G7 road section from Linhe to Hami, Inner Mongolia
G217 National Highway from Urumqi to Burqin
Part of the s235 provincial road section from Shanshan to Lop Nur Town
S235 provincial road section in the hinterland of Lop Nur
S235 provincial road section in the hinterland of Lop Nur
Burqin to Hemu road section
Section from Huatugou to Delingha Qaidam Basin
scene
This part has a lot of content, mainly photos, so you can take a look at it.
It is said that the scenery in Xinjiang has its own advantages in four seasons, so winter will definitely not let you down. In winter, there are fewer tourists in Xinjiang and they are more scattered.
Except for Hemu and Kanas, which are basically full, there are not many people in other scenic spots, and the situation of not seeing people also happens from time to time. From Beijing to Hami, from Shanshan to Lop Nur, from Urumqi to Burqin, the G217 National Highway, the edge of the Altun Mountains, and the Qaidam Basin entering Qinghai can all make you feel enough desolation, and these desolations are different, Gobi, Landforms such as sandy land, Yadan, snowy land, and mountains will impact your heart in turn. Therefore, when you travel to Xinjiang in winter, you can wantonly murder your shutter.
Let’s be more specific:
Hami Five Forts Devil City: There are many devil cities in Xinjiang, all of which are Yadan landforms, which are roughly the same. The more famous should be the World Devil City in Karamay. But only the Wubao Devil City in Hami can drive in. During the Spring Festival, there are almost no tourists, so you can park at will and take pictures of the landscape without people inside. In principle, you cannot leave the paved road in the scenic area, but you understand.
Hemu Township: Very beautiful. But this time we didn’t catch up with very good weather. It was cloudy and snowy on the day of arrival, and it was basically clear the next day, so I went to the viewing platform twice to take pictures. Regarding the viewing platform, there are several ways to go up.
The first is to walk along the trail, you can go up in about 20 minutes, it is very close; you can also take a horse-drawn sledge, but the price is relatively high, if you want to experience it, you can choose; the third is to take a snowmobile, the price is higher, we are in Wo I didn’t see anyone riding a snowmobile to the viewing platform, after all, walking is also very easy.
Hemu in the morning is beautiful, and the snow is also very pure (basically starting from Burqin, the wheels of all the cars have been washed clean, so the road surface in Hemu is also very clean, and the snow is also pure white after being pressed by the wheels ), when the smoke rises is a good time to take pictures. The sun slowly rises here after 9 o’clock, so you don’t have to get up early to take pictures of the sunrise. Very impressed with this place.
Kanas: It is very famous, it must be beautiful in autumn, and the scenery in winter is mediocre. But I like the morning fog of the Kanas River the most. Standing in the snow at minus 30° for an hour and a half, I can’t forget to leave.
Jiaohe Ancient City: An important town on the ancient Silk Road, a world cultural heritage, you can Baidu for specific information. There is also Gaochang City nearby, which is a foothold of Xuanzang’s westward journey. There are some stories here, so I won’t go into details.
Kumtag Desert: Located in Shanshan, it is the closest desert to the city. You can drive in, but the cost is relatively high, it seems to be 300 yuan per car, and people have to buy tickets separately. The facilities in the scenic area are complete, and you can walk, take a battery car, take an off-road vehicle, etc. If you settle down in Shanshan, you can take a look.
Lop Nur, Altun Mountain: No scenery is the greatest scenery! What you feel is the desolation of no man’s land, and what you feel is the magic of nature. Lop Nor Town is the largest township in the country, with an area larger than Taiwan Province and slightly smaller than Ningxia Autonomous Region.
The resident population is only about 2,000, and all of them are migrant workers. There are only two buildings in the town: the town government and the commercial building. The inn we live in is the only place where we can stay.
Qaidam Basin: The Yadan landform of hundreds of kilometers, if it is a sunny sunset, it will be very shocking.
Chaka Salt Lake: It is more beautiful than expected, mainly because there are fewer people. According to the driver of the battery car in the scenic spot, tens of thousands of people are received in the scenic spot every day in summer, which is extremely crowded.
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Hami Wubao Town Devil City
Along the way from Burqin to Hemu Township
Along the way from Burqin to Hemu Township
Hemu Township Observation Deck
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
In the early morning in Hemu Township, the hillside on the right is the viewing platform
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
Hemu Township in the morning
Evening on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning rime on the Kanas River
Early morning rime on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Early morning twilight on the Kanas River
Kanas Moon Bay
Kanas Moon Bay
Turpan Jiaohe Ancient City
Turpan Jiaohe Ancient City
Turpan Jiaohe Ancient City
Turpan Jiaohe Ancient City
Turpan Jiaohe Ancient City
Kumtag Desert
Kumtag Desert
Kumtag Desert
Kumtag Desert
Kumtag Desert
Kumtag Desert
Kumtag Desert
Ruoqiang
Ruoqiang
Lop Nur along the s235 provincial road
Lop Nur along the s235 provincial road
Lop Nur along the s235 provincial road
Along the G315 National Highway in Lop Nur
Along the G315 National Highway in Lop Nur
Along the G315 National Highway in Lop Nur
Along the G315 National Highway in Lop Nur
Along the G315 National Highway in Lop Nur
Altun Mountain
Altun Mountain
Yardang Landform in Qaidam Basin
Water Yardang in Qaidam Basin
Yardang Landform in Qaidam Basin
Water Yardang in Qaidam Basin
Chaka Salt Lake
.Chaka Salt Lake
Chaka Salt Lake
Chaka Salt Lake
Chaka Salt Lake
Chaka Salt Lake
Food
Food must be mentioned. The beef and mutton in Xinjiang, Qinghai, Gansu, and Ningxia are all delicious. During the 18 days of this trip, I hardly ate pork. The chicken is average, and the meat quality is definitely not as good as the stupid chicken in the country, just like the ones in supermarkets in big cities.
Baked buns and thin-skinned buns are very good. It is worth noting that some restaurants make baked buns with beef and some with lamb. It is best to ask when ordering.
I didn’t arrange the pictures in order, but I will try my best to write the captions, and I will also write the names of several impressive restaurants for reference.
Eating in non-scenic spots in Xinjiang is not very expensive, but it is not cheap either. For the three of us, if we order a large plate of chicken (or hand-meat or roasted lamb leg and lamb chops), 10 skewers of lamb skewers, a few grilled buns, one hot dish, one green vegetable, and two bottles of beer, it will cost more than 300 yuan. The quantity is quite a lot.
One night in Lop Nur Town, there was no restaurant open, but luckily I brought a Haidilao self-heating hot pot, and I bought some beer from the supermarket to satisfy my hunger
Fresh fish and sheep in Linhe, Inner Mongolia, the taste is average and the price is affordable
Xinjiang Restaurant at Wanda Hotel Urumqi
The buffet at the Wanda Hotel in Urumqi, we ate here for the New Year’s Eve dinner, the salmon is not bad
The noodles in a certain service area are very fragrant
The No. 6 compound restaurant in Shihezi is highly recommended. We waited in line for half an hour to eat
Pilaf in No.6 Courtyard
The roasted oily naan in the No. 6 compound is delicious
Pepper Chicken in No. 6 Courtyard
The Haierbag Western Restaurant in Urumqi combines Xinjiang cuisine with Western food. It is very authentic and has an elegant environment. Most of the diners are decent Uighurs. This should be one of the best restaurants in Urumqi
The elegant environment of Heilbag restaurant
The Uighur waiter looks sweet and stares at me affectionately
Mint Tea at Heilbag Restaurant
Heilbag’s Baked Buns, Lamb’s
Kebabs at Heilbagh
Heilbagh’s thin-skinned buns, lamb’s
Heilbag’s Pilaf
Harik Pilaf in Turpan, this is a chain store, and it is also available in Shanshan and other cities. The taste is authentic, the price is fair, if you don’t have enough rice, you can add more
Harrick’s Lamb Shank Pilaf
Harrick’s Lamb Chops Pilaf
Shanshan Hotel restaurant’s finger meat tastes good
The Dezhuang hotpot restaurant in Huatugou should be the best restaurant in the town. After work, many oil workers come here to gather. It seems like a small oasis in the wasteland.
Asiya in Lanzhou–Yidingbai Hijab restaurant, the environment and taste are good, and I feel that it is much more particular than Xibei
Asiya–Three Fortresses of Yiding White Hijab Restaurant
Asiya–the boutique hand-picked lamb chops of Yiding Baijiatou Restaurant
Asiya – Beef tripe from Yiding White Hijab Restaurant
The kebabs at the private plot restaurant in Hemu Township. This restaurant should be a more distinctive restaurant in Hemu. I heard that the proprietress is from Beijing. The decoration is quite tasteful and the location is good.
The big plate chicken in Karamay Meimeixuan restaurant, three people can’t eat it, 60 yuan
Lamb hooves at Karamay Delicious Restaurant
How many restaurants do I have shares in?
place to stay
Have you ever had this experience and never tire of it? When driving on the road, ask people around you to read the hotel review section on Ctrip, call the hotel to ask about the cuisine of the hotel restaurant, cancel after booking, then book another one, cancel again, and then book the first one.
I have, and we’re sure we’ll need at least half a day at the hotel that night.
Focus on the accommodation in Hemu Township and Kanas:
We arrived at Hemu Township at noon, because most of them are homestays, so they loosely manage Ctrip, and many of them simply don’t exist. I confirmed an inn through the recommendation of the owner of the homestay where my father stayed in Hemu when he was traveling (his house was not open during the Spring Festival).
The location is slightly out of the way, about 1-2 kilometers away from the center of Hemu Village, but the advantage is that there is floor heating, the room is very warm, and unlined clothing is enough. Meals are generally expensive, and accommodation is expensive, more expensive than five-star hotels in Urumqi, similar to farmhouses.
Kanas is hard to describe. We arrived at night and couldn’t find accommodation. The resorts near Jiadengyu are closed; none of the old and new Kanas villages have rooms; it is said that Baihaba has no rooms either. We found the police station, and the police said there was nothing we could do.
We wanted to go back to Burqin after dinner, and at this time we turned around: the proprietress of the restaurant said that we could live in her house, and my father and I slept in the room where the guy lived. There were 6 single beds in total, and we each had a bed. open. And the wife can sleep with her on the bunk in the next room, and of course there are other family members on the bunk.
In desperation, we can only accept the fee of 200 yuan per person, at least we have a place to stay. My dad and I are fine. At the beginning of the wife’s house, two and a half boys and her were playing and eating chicken on the same bunk, and then a half-drunk old man also climbed up to sleep, and the proprietress came back with a hangover in the middle of the night. Only then did my wife dare to fall asleep.
About accommodation in Urumqi:
We passed through Urumqi back and forth, and we chose five-star hotels. There are three major five-star hotels in Urumqi: Wanda, Sheraton, and Hilton. Hilton was eliminated by us first, because the location is relatively remote, close to the conference center in the suburbs, it is not very convenient for travel, shopping, and eating.
I stayed at Wanda on the way there. The room is nice. Next to it is the Wanda Shopping Center. The location is a little distance from the city center but not too far. It is also very convenient to eat. There are several restaurants in the hotel that are of good quality.
For the return trip, I chose the Sheraton Hotel in the city center. The room is a bit old, but it is close to the Meimei Shopping Mall in the city center. You don’t need to wear a coat for shopping, you can enter directly from the hotel. And the grade of the mall is very high, and there are even many luxury brands.
There is also Zara, my wife’s favorite, which is very important to us who just came back from the shop in Kanaston. My wife needs to calm down the galloping horses in my heart by shopping. In short, we are very satisfied with Wanda and Sheraton, and the price is about 500 yuan.
I sorted out some Ctrip pages, the price is not the price at that time, so it may not be very accurate, but it is not much worse. We are basically satisfied with these hotels, almost all of which are the most expensive in the area.
Memories of my wife in Kanas
The only commercial building in Lop Nor Town, the inn is upstairs
The WeChat of the proprietress of the Lop Nur Inn is also the only place where you can stay
payment
Let me briefly talk about the cost. Due to time constraints, I did not make statistics item by item. I only talk about some relatively special details. You can refer to it according to your own situation.
The total cost is more than 30,000 yuan, but I think it can save a lot more.
Special details: when the three of us were together, we had two rooms every day; my father met us in Urumqi on the soft sleeper train, and the ticket was 1,000 yuan; on the return journey, my father broke up with us in Lanzhou, wandered alone, and has not returned yet. So in the last two days, my wife and I shared a room; tickets for Hemu and Kanas in winter are discounted, 100 yuan per person, which is said to include Baihaba, but we didn’t go.
We lived in Urumqi for a total of three days, the hotel cost more than 3,000 yuan, and the meal (excluding shopping) cost more than 2,000 yuan, so these three days accounted for a large proportion of the total cost, which can save a lot of space; 100 kilometers fuel consumption estimate (Not necessarily accurate) 13-14 liters; the high-speed fee is almost no advantage, because we left a year ago, and we have not left Xinjiang on the seventh day of the lunar new year.
The average daily cost of lunch and dinner is about 600 yuan; the accommodation at Hemu Nongjiale is 700 yuan per room, the big plate of chicken is 180 yuan, and the total of 3 beds in Kanas is 600 yuan. The reception capacity of the scenic spot is limited, which is understandable.
miscellaneous
Safety: When going to Xinjiang, the biggest concern is safety, and this is the least of your worries. Whether in the capital, prefecture-level cities, towns, or even villages, you can see countless surveillance cameras, security checkpoints, police stations, police cars, police officers, and auxiliary police.
You don’t see quarrels, disputes anywhere. Entering Xinjiang, starting from the expressway service area, going to all hotels, guesthouses, restaurants, and checkpoints, you must go through security checks. Before entering the gas station, everyone in the car needs to get off, and the police will open all the doors. The trunk and machine cover are inspected. After the inspection, only the driver is allowed to swipe his ID card to drive into the gas station. At the position of the oil gun, he must swipe his ID card again to discharge the oil.
In terms of accommodation, whether it is a five-star hotel or the bunk beds we live in, ID registration is required. It should be noted that when you leave, you must remind the boss to log off your information, otherwise you will go to other places the next day hotels will not be available.
To put it simply: as long as you enter Xinjiang, your every move will be monitored, and the police can find you at any time. It is said that if you call 110 in the whole of Xinjiang, the police in big cities can arrive within 2 minutes, and the police in rural areas will appear by your side within 5 minutes.
The people in Xinjiang are gentle and friendly. The most impressive ones are the middle-aged and elderly Uighurs, who are gorgeous and elegant; the Kazakhs are relatively rough.
Payment: Wechat Alipay is available in all places, including villages, except for some places with poor network signal.
Dogs of Lop Nur Town
Postscript
I found that the posts I wrote seem to be more suitable for posting on the hornet’s nest, and I have basically obtained information from the hornet’s nest in the past few years. The e-family has gradually become the tool I refer to when repairing and modifying cars.
This is also very good. A large number of technical posts in the past are very useful for future generations. But it is undeniable that with the update of the model, the old posts will gradually become invalid, and the number of friends who can write posts is also being lost, and the update speed of new posts is obvious to all.
I don’t have the ability to write technical posts, I can only record travel journals, so I do my best and pray that one day riders can find it from the vast network when they need it.
