Xiongguan people
The Taklamakan Desert is a legend to me. It is mysterious, vast, huge, and terrifying… It is like a magnet full of magic, which awes me and haunts my dreams. “If you don’t go to Tamo, you are not a hero”, finally, I couldn’t restrain my long-awaited yearning for it, and decided to come to a trip to realize my dream.
The Taklamakan Desert is located in the center of the Tarim Basin in southern Xinjiang. It is the largest desert in China, one of the top ten deserts in the world, and the second largest mobile desert in the world. It is about 1,000 kilometers long from east to west and 400 kilometers wide from north to south, covering an area of 330,000 square kilometers .
The average annual precipitation does not exceed 100 millimeters, the lowest is only four or five millimeters; while the annual average evaporation is as high as 2500-3400 millimeters. Strong winds can blow up sand walls, up to 900 meters in height, and the sand dunes in the desert are continuous, affected by the wind, and often move. Vegetation is sparse, and the root system is extremely developed.
In 2016, I had the idea of crossing the Taklimakan Desert (hereinafter referred to as “Crossing the Tower”), but due to work and physical reasons, I couldn’t make it.
In January 2019, “Shaxingwuyu” and “Taihangshui” successfully crossed the eastern section of Tamo, passed by Jiayuguan, told us what we saw and heard, taught us driving experience and precautions, and rekindled me and the car Friends yearn for the Taklamakan Desert.
Experience it, don’t say anything, do it!
group, prepare
It is difficult to know, but it is not easy to do.
Timing is key. In summer, the surface temperature of Tamo reaches over 70°C, and sandstorms occur frequently in spring and autumn. We checked the meteorological data. In February, the temperature in Qiemo County, where Tamo is located, was 3-5°C higher than that of Jiayuguan.
At this time, the temperature in Jiayuguan is 3-15°C during the day and -7-0°C at night. The desert is a little hotter during the day, and the probability of sandstorms in Tamo is not high during this period. Therefore, we decided to choose February 2, the day when the dragon raises its head, ” “Qilian Column” crossed the eastern part of the Taklamakan Desert.
“Qilian Column” is a team composed of off-road enthusiasts. The members are composed of drivers from Jiayuguan, Lanzhou, Jiuquan, and Zhangye. The key players are all in Jiayuguan. It can be said that Jiayuguan has become an off-road base camp, and the drivers are the darlings of the desert.
Call for posters have been sent out.
The “Qilian Column” departs from Jiayuguan, and it takes 2 hours to reach Dadunmen in Badain Jaran Desert, 4 hours to Hara Lake, 5 hours to Tengger Desert, and 6 hours
Arriving in Lop Nur… Team activities are usually in the surrounding area, usually 2 to 3 days, but this activity is planned to take half a month, which is indeed a test.
After repeated deliberation, 5 main drivers of “Xiongguanren”, “On the Road”, “Jin Shao”, “Xingyu” and “Sunshine” were determined. The vehicles were Toyota series – 1 FJ Cruiser and 1 Overbearing 150 Taiwan, Luxun 4700, Lexus GX470 and GX460 each.
The co-drivers are “Jeep Breaking the World”, “Expo” and “David”, and the team of 5 cars and 8 people has been officially confirmed.
Several other friends signed up and wanted to participate, but due to vehicle reasons and seat restrictions, they were all politely declined. I feel helpless, guilty and apologetic for rejecting the requesters of the same company.
“Soldiers and horses have not moved, food and grass go first.” There are a lot of things to be sorted out, such as refitting vehicles, preparing food and accommodation, etc. Fortunately, there is a “road book” from “Taihangshui” to support us, reducing a lot of work pressure in planning.
Vehicle modifications. Nitrogen shock absorbers, anti-drop rings, chassis guards, front and rear bars, winches, these are essential. Every vehicle needs to remove the second and third row of seats to unload unnecessary loads and reduce the weight of the vehicle body as much as possible.
My car was replaced with an aluminum-magnesium alloy front bumper, and 2 side bars were installed. The rear bumper was also reinforced with steel pipes, and the chassis was armored with aluminum-magnesium alloy. For Chi K02 tires, the second row of seats was removed and the third row was left, just in case; the air bag, air bag, air curtain and anti-skid switches were all disconnected. With the addition of a 136-liter auxiliary fuel tank, the total volume of the car’s fuel tank has reached 222 liters.
After repeatedly watching and studying the articles and videos of “Xia Ke Xing”, “A8” and “Taihang Water”, we believe that there are three major difficulties that must be overcome when passing through the tower: soft sand, supplies and cold; ensuring that one is intact means that the vehicle is intact. Only when the vehicle is in good condition can we ensure that we and the vehicle come out safely.
Making everyone feel comfortable is our core issue.
After repeated consultations and multiple comparisons, we chose an inflatable cotton tent with a size of 3.5X5 meters and can accommodate 8 people. The biggest advantage of this tent is that it takes 5 minutes to set up and 3 minutes to deflate and pack, which is very easy to use.
The unfavorable factors are also very prominent, that is, it is too heavy, reaching 90 kg, and the volume is huge. The diameter of the original packaging is 70 cm. After being used and repacked, the volume will expand to more than 1 meter, but the warmth retention is really good. All personnel who pass through the tower Live in it without getting cold (the last 7 people live in a tent and I live in a car).
In order to fully keep warm, we brought a 3.5kw generator, a 1000w backup generator, 4 micro electric heaters, 2 briquette stoves, and 2 boxes of briquette, ready to be heated at any time (heating with electric heating at night , taking into account security factors), but these preparations are not used.
In terms of food, we prepare 16 meals in 8 days. Specifically, there are hot pot, mutton powder soup, beef powder soup, mutton noodles, simmered noodles, dry noodles, millet porridge, and hot and sour soup. The ingredients for each meal are vacuum-packed in advance, and disposable bowls, chopsticks and plates.
1 15-liter pressure cooker, 1 8-liter cross-country pot, 1 kettle, 6 stainless steel plates, 8 stainless steel pots, the size is just right to fit in the pressure cooker. Liquefied petroleum gas stove, 5 kg gas cylinder, and 1 gasoline stove, 2 small gas stoves.
In order to ensure the successful off-road activities of this trip, each lead driver pays a registration fee of 20,000 yuan, and each co-driver pays 1,000 yuan.
All these work will be ready before the Spring Festival. In terms of specific division of labor, the team leader, me, “On the Road” and “Expo” are responsible for logistics support and car repair and maintenance tasks; “Sunshine”, “Xinyu” and “Jeep Chuangtiantian” are responsible for generators and setting up tents. Me, “Jin Shao” and “David” are in charge of cooking and boiling water, and “David” also assumes the responsibility of environmental protection supervisor.
It is more difficult to pass through the tower with weight and supplies, and reducing the weight is the key. Due to time constraints, we did not arrange personnel to call the front station, so we contacted a friend in Qiemo County, manager Shi of the hydropower station, and he helped us a lot.
He applied for 1,500 liters of gasoline for us in advance, and when we arrived on the gravel road at Qiemo, Manager Shi delivered 760 liters of gasoline, auto parts, 50 liters of water, grapes, pears, bananas, apples and other fruits, which became necessary for us to cross successfully. Prepare conditions.
departure, end
March 8th is the “February 2nd” of the lunar calendar when the dragon raises its head, which is a good sign and it is time to start crossing.
“Go out for dumplings, come in for noodles.” At 7:30 in the morning on March 5th, all the cross-travelers, seeing off their relatives and friends went to the restaurant of “Jin Shao” to eat dumplings. Looking at the seeing off wife, sister and friends, I couldn’t help but burst into tears ——For your dream, you must succeed in piercing the tower! For the sake of the family, we must return home safely!
When I arrived at Huatugou that night, I couldn’t sleep all night. I kept looking at the map of Aowei. I was relieved when the two “on the road” and “David” who were delayed due to accidents passed Dangjin Mountain safely. On the way, I suddenly found that the auxiliary fuel tank of my car was not pumping oil. Fortunately, there were many gas stations along the way, and I arrived safely in Qiemo County on the evening of the 6th.
Manager Shi booked a room for us in Qiemo County. After eating hot hot pot, everyone greeted us and expressed our gratitude. After the meal, they were divided into 3 groups. “On the Road” and “Expo” were responsible for overhauling the auxiliary fuel tank of my car. “David” went to a nearby supermarket to make purchases. In the early morning, everyone completed their tasks and returned to their place of residence.
Seeing that the preparations were going well, I was also elated and asked for everyone’s opinions repeatedly. Everyone agreed to start half a day in advance, at 3:00 noon on March 7th.
On March 7th, the sun was shining and everyone was in a good mood. The car drove a few kilometers out of the county and arrived at Liangchao’s auto repair shop. It was filled with oil barrels and tied things. “Jin Shao” and “David” made additional purchases Naan, water and other ingredients, everyone cleans up at 12:30, so I won’t go into details for lunch.
medicine box
Speeding, Ruoqiang traffic police tell everyone about Xinjiang’s requirements
riverside, trail
The Cheerchen River is the largest river in the Kunlun Mountains and the Altun Mountains in the Bayingoleng Mongolian Autonomous Prefecture of Xinjiang. It originates from the Muztag Peak on the northern slope of the Kunlun Mountains.
With an annual runoff of 800 million cubic meters, it is the river with the largest runoff in the southeast of the Tarim Basin. The total length of the river is 813 kilometers, and the length in Qiemo County alone reaches 622 kilometers. To cross the Taklamakan Desert, cross the Cheerchen River. problem.
There used to be a river crossing point at the east end of N39, the water flow is slow, and if you are lucky, you can pass the vehicle. However, water resources were abundant last winter and this spring, and the river bed was severely eroded. There was no hope of crossing the river directly. We had to detour 150 kilometers from the west of the river to reach the easternmost end of N39.
At 3 o’clock in the afternoon on the 7th, we put up car stickers by the river, solemnly raised the flag and set off, officially starting the journey of crossing.
The vegetation along the river is lush, and there is a winding herdsman’s path between the forks of trees and the middle of bushes, which appears and disappears from time to time. Within half an hour, my flagpole was broken, and the car was scratched, making a sizzling sound, which made people feel heartache.
Going forward, there is a large swamp, with about 500 meters of water surface, a large area of white flowers, blocking our wheels. After a brief communication, it was decided that I would pass through the barrier and the other cars would stand by.
Everyone said “faster than sand and slower than water”. At this time, my brain was blank. I started, forced the second gear, and stepped on the accelerator to the end. It was a rush, mud and water splashed everywhere, and my vision was blurred. Fortunately, I could clearly see the reeds on both sides and the road surface. With stagnant water, I gritted my teeth and turned my direction, and I finally rushed out of the swamp in a twisted manner.
I immediately notify the car behind: the head car passes. Afterwards, “Jin Shao” and “Sunshine” also passed smoothly; the fourth car was the FJ “on the road”, and it was found that the situation was not good when it just started, and the car was stuck. Rescue in swamps is far more difficult than in deserts. The tires of the “winch truck” slipped, so they could only go back and forth. After half an hour, they finally got out of trouble, and everyone cheered.
Not far away, the path by the river is gone, we can only shuttle through the desert and the hard thorns. At around 7 o’clock in the evening, a small slope of about 10 meters became my “blocker”. Other cars passed by, but my car couldn’t get on. Looking at the densely packed ruts, I wanted to cut up diagonally.
When I was approaching the top of the slope, the sand was so soft that the car suddenly lost power, unable to go up or down, hanging on the half slope, listening to the wind blowing the sand and buzzing, my scalp was numb, and I prayed silently in my heart, wind, wind, you stop for a while. At this time, “Sunshine” and “Jin Shao” came up with a rescue plan, and they acted immediately.
One winch was hung on the side steps, and the other car winch was hung on the front of the car, straightening the car abruptly. After all the tossing, everyone was exhausted, so they decided to camp. Today, my vehicle shows a travel distance of 90 kilometers, and the straight-line distance of Aowei is 70 kilometers. The road by the river is exactly half of it. Everyone is very happy.
It was the first day of camping in the evening. Everyone had practiced beforehand, and within ten minutes, the tent was set up, the pot table was set up, and the hot pot was up! Hot pot is worth promoting as a picnic for off-road people, it is convenient, fast and simple. After dinner, everyone was still full of ideas and played poker. I felt sore all over, so I rested in the car.
For this activity, I brought a camp bed, a big mattress, and a big quilt in the car. I didn’t feel like camping outdoors at all. I turned on the car heater before going to bed, and the car was warm in less than ten minutes. Turned off the heat, didn’t reheat all night, and none of the 3 heating schemes we had in place worked.
Lying under the quilt, looking at the stars outside the car window, I suddenly had the feeling of “sending a mayfly in the world, a drop in the ocean”, thinking about my wife and children, I blamed myself for my recklessness in the afternoon, and thinking about the 500 kilometers of desert behind During the journey, I secretly cheered for myself. There are many difficulties and dangers, so I must cheer up! After taking half a tablet of eszopiclone, I fell asleep until dawn.
On the morning of the 8th, it was 10:30 after everyone got up for dinner and packed up the big tents. The five cars set off in order, with “On the Road” and “Jeep Breaking the World” leading, “Jin Shao” took the second car, and “David” and I “Third, the fourth car of “Star Rain” and “Expo”, “Sunshine” finished.
There is no trail by the river. Fortunately, everyone has experience in driving in the desert. Four tracks showed us the way. The driving speed is still quite fast, with an average speed of 20 kilometers per hour. With the lessons of the previous day, today we basically control the driving in the second gear, only use the automatic transmission in relatively flat areas, and use the center differential lock all the way. Arrived at the east end of N39 at 3:15 noon, and drove 80 kilometers in the desert along the river that day.
It was finally possible to officially cross. Everyone cheered, joked, took photos and made videos to commemorate, and their joy was beyond words. But I was not happy at all. Thinking about how difficult it was when we first came in, what kind of difficulties and obstacles would be waiting for us when we officially crossed the desert?
Qilian column flag
Cherchen River
Cherchen River
Raise the flag by the Cherchen River and prepare to go
Cherchen River
Leading car — on the road
blocked by the river
rushed out of the swamp 500 meters in one go
rushed out of the swamp 500 meters in one go
rushed out of the swamp 500 meters in one go
Populus euphratica by the Cheerchen River
Populus euphratica by the Cheerchen River
car stuck
Populus euphratica by the Cheerchen River
Populus euphratica by the Cheerchen River
Populus euphratica by the Cheerchen River
camping
rescue
Set up camp
