The 25-kilometer road has been detoured for 800 kilometers
In late March, we followed China National Geographic to go to Yunnan-Tibet Three Rivers (Lancang River, Nujiang River, Jinsha River; in fact, there is also Dulong River) area for scientific research and survey roads; the biggest feature of this area is that the three rivers flow in parallel, that is, Lancang River, Nujiang River, and Jinsha River The three rivers are all parallel from north to south, and they all originate in Tibet, and the parallel flow area flows through Yunnan from north to south; so this time our route is from Yunnan to Tibet, and the original expected route is to land from Shangri-La. Then cross westward to Gongshan County, and then cross Gaoligong Mountain on the border of Yunnan from Gongshan, then turn back and go Bingzhongluo-Bingchacha-Linzhi and finally end in Tibet.
The original route was probably something like this.
Because of the tight schedule of this trip, our work vehicle was too late to be hauled to Yunnan, so we rented a Prado 2700 as a work vehicle with the help of local friends, while the National Geographic staff drove a mu-X.
The odometer of the Prado 2700 we rented showed about 120,000 kilometers. When I got the car and started running, I felt that the car was not very powerful. At first, I thought it was a problem with Shangri-La’s plateau. In addition, the power of the 2700 itself was not enough. It was normal; but later it was found to be wrong, and I felt that the throttle response was too sluggish. Reminiscent of the problem that the air filter was blocked when I drove the mu-X to Tengger for the hero meeting, I quickly turned on the air filter and took a look.
As a result…then it was still an air filter, it was just a piece of concrete, I took the filter element out of the air storage tank and knocked it upside down on the ground twice, the soil that fell out weighed half a ton, I went to several repair shops and said no The air filter, so I used the air pump to blow it a little bit. Unexpectedly, the dust flying all over the sky even the pedestrians on the side of the road were choked and ran away. I wonder if this car has not checked the air filter for more than 100,000 kilometers. Really sweat.
Don’t think about the same with the air conditioner filter element, because there is almost no cold air when the fan is turned on to the maximum. When you take it apart, it is also concrete similar to the air filter, and no matter how you blow it, it will not be cleaned. Simply pull out the filter element and turn it on again. The air-conditioning is blowing in the face, that sourness, it is related to wearing a thick down jacket and a scarf when you go out in the morning. In the weather in Yunnan, you have to prepare clothes for all seasons at any time.
We didn’t buy the air conditioner filter until we arrived in Gongshan.
Because the road from Shangri-La directly to Gongshan is still covered by heavy snow, 25km is impassable, so we have to detour – this is probably the farthest road I have ever detoured in my life, because this 25km is impassable, we have to go from Shangri-La Go south to Dali, then go around the Erhai Lake and go north again. It takes about 800km on this road. Is it big enough to circle the 800km circle for 25km?
Compared with us, taxi detours are a drop in the bucket.
Because some of the staff who set off with us were unable to land on the flight due to the local weather in Shangri-La (in fact, we saw a clear sky on the ground, which may be due to severe wind shear in the mountains); the flight returned to Chongqing, and it was about nine o’clock in the evening. Transfer again The flight took off, and it was already very late when they arrived in Shangri-La. Because they had to arrange a lot of landing work, the next day’s itinerary was delayed a lot.
It was already noon when we set off from Shangri-La; we ran along the mountain road to Dali; at night we spent our birthday in Wayao Town, a place we had never heard of; the consumption in Wayao Town was really heart-warming; the room was only 88 One night, the deluxe double room is only 108, and the truck siren on the road outside the window and the holographic bombing of the 195 tractor are provided free of charge. That kind of battle will roll far away from any Ferrari McLaren.
When I was having dinner at night, I especially wanted to eat a bowl of noodles; the dishes in Yunnan were too spicy, so I asked the proprietress if I could leave out the chili, and the answer was: No; I asked the proprietress if I could cook some noodles, and the answer was: No; would it be okay to buy dried noodles? , replied: No; the domineering business method of the proprietress was quite successful, we finally gave in obediently and had an authentic Wayao Town hot and sour dinner.
I refueled the vehicle for the first time after taking a break in Wayao Town. As a result, I ran about 470km from Shangri-La. The Prado 2700 added 380 yuan, while the mu-x only added 210 yuan-210 yuan, I rely on it; this gap is really It’s a bit much, and the gas money is really painful.
The journey from Wayao Town to the direction of Gongshan is simply the beginning of a nightmare;
This road is now called the new Yunnan-Tibet line, and the whole line is under construction. It feels like the Sichuan-Tibet line at least 10 years ago. The rain here is monthly, and it seems to never stop. rainy mud, landslides on the side of the road, and mountains piled up on the road surface caused by blasting for road repairs. In general, the road surface is always blocked by various reasons.
Before entering Gongshan for tens of kilometers, we detoured the small road on the other side of the river; the small road was extremely narrow, and there were many curves, so we had to keep turning the steering wheel. When we slept at night, our shoulders felt sore, but fortunately, there were very few trucks. , so that the car will not be pressed for a long time, and it will not be blocked because of wrong driving, so our speed is greatly accelerated. Compared with the 220km we ran on the new Yunnan-Tibet line in two days, the speed here It’s already fast.
Compared with the mu-X, the seat comfort of the Prado is really good. Based on my experience of driving the mu-X in the past few years, the people in the car on this extremely bumpy road will definitely be bumped to a climax. The road has been crushed by construction machinery and then squeezed into a washboard by various large trucks. People fasten their seat belts and still look like eggs in a box. Sometimes they are forced to speed up and overtake, causing the jump to make people sit Shaking left and right in the car can’t even be controlled by yourself, and shaking it back and forth has a breast-enhancing effect. Anyone who doesn’t believe it can come and try it by himself.
How bumpy is the car? We took 6,000 steps on the wristband in the car in the morning, and the one with the most meals at night was 13,000 steps.
One of the biggest advantages of bypassing Gongshan from Shangri-La is that the altitude along the road is not high, basically more than 1,000 meters. Even after crossing Gaoligong Mountain and reaching Dulong Township, the altitude is still more than 1,000 meters; because of this, I can I take a bath every day. Although I still feel a little tired after taking a bath because it is a plateau area, the refreshing feeling is not too good; this is a rare thing in the plateau area. Everyone who returns from the plateau Others can’t feel the greasyness on my body.
Only good scenery can be found on bad roads
The mountain road crossing Gaoligong Mountain is like a roll of hemp rope that is thrown on the ground and coiled up. There are countless bends. The phrase “there are 18 bends in the mountain road here” can only describe the bends of the 100-meter-long mountain road; If the steering wheel is heavy on the road, it will definitely be hard work for the car to run. Thanks to the snowstorm this year, we were told in the management area that we had to wait for the forestry department to clear the snow on the road before we could enter. Later, when we reached the top of the mountain, we found that there were indeed accumulated snow in many places. The snow is quite thick, and the narrow mountain road will be blocked by a little snow.
Returning from Gaoligong Mountain to Gongshan, I wanted to fill up the gas and go straight to Bingzhongluo; unexpectedly, when I entered the city, I found that the whole city had a power outage, and all gas stations were closed. Go to Sabingzhongluo, then stay in Gongshan for the night with peace of mind, register in the room and sleep in the dark under the dark lights; we didn’t call until about four o’clock in the middle of the night, we woke up at five o’clock and found that the mobile phone was not fully charged, checked out, loaded the car and left.
The first bay of the Nujiang River; behind it is the viewing platform of the landslide, and the entrance of the bend in front also collapsed. We were stuck in the middle for three days.
Arrived in Bingzhongluo smoothly in an hour, and then everyone went to a small village outside the city to see, and then our embarrassing journey started again; after leaving the city, we found that the road was blocked, and it was said that it would be blocked for an hour, but unfortunately there were three cars The two wanted to go back first, but a landslide occurred just a few kilometers after returning to the county seat. Only one car passed by, and the other had to turn back and go to the village on the mountain together, hoping that the landslide would be resolved when they returned.
However, after we climbed vertically to more than 2,000 villages on the top of the mountain and came back, we found that not only the road had not been repaired; The place became our shelter.
We ate for three days in a row, because the mutton in the middle meal was not as delicious, so we didn’t eat any more mutton.
In order to comfort ourselves in the wet weather, we asked the farmer to stew a chicken; while eating lunch, it started to rain non-stop, and it was impossible to unclog it in the evening, so in the afternoon we put these I didn’t sleep well all day to make up for it, and continued to eat chicken at night.
Before I finished dinner, I heard a loud rumbling sound from the mountain in the distance, and the mountain was sliding again, and then…then the rumbling sound continued all night.
Our hideaway, it looks good — but just to see.
When I got up early and finished my meal, the sun seemed to be coming out, and I thought that this is good, the chance of landslides will be much smaller when the sky is clear, and the passageway should be cleared today; , Rumbling”… Continue to landslide, well, we’ll stay here.
Roasting the fire, eating melon seeds and talking nonsense is the most important work in our three days
I asked the owner of the farmhouse about the food reserves, and counted a total of more than 200 chickens, 15 black goats, dozens of eggs, vegetables on several acres of land, and several bags of grain. The logistics reserves are relatively optimistic. During the long-term struggle, there should be no risk of starvation. Let’s use it up. Anyway, it’s 600 to 700 kilometers to go back. If you look like this along the way, you will have landslides. It’s better to stay here and have food and drink.
But the facts shattered our small calculations; we stayed for three days and the road to Bingzhongluo was not cleared. Instead, the landslides continued. When we tried to turn back, the road back also collapsed—we had to hang our heads in despair. Back to the farmhouse for chicken again.
At noon the good news came — the way back was cleared after a whole morning of digging. Now our choice is very simple. We can no longer go to Zayu as planned, and the vehicle ahead arrived three days earlier than us, basically doing all the work we can do. We must go back before the Ching Ming Festival, otherwise things would be completely delayed.
After thinking about it, we set off on our way back with a lot of helplessness.
It turned out that our return trip was an extremely wise decision, because on the second day of departure, that is, April 3rd, the landslide in Bingzhongluo continued to collapse, and it was more serious than before. The local department has issued an announcement. Due to the serious landslide It is still uncertain when traffic control will start.
Do you think it will be smooth sailing when you go back?
Beautiful thought; on the way from Bingzhongluo to Lushui, we encountered small landslides and road blasting construction along the way. The continuous rain made the ground muddy like a quagmire. We had to detour to Dulongjiang many times because of road damage and traffic jams. Drive across the side road.
Most of the small roads on the other side of the river are single-lane two-way, and they are rural roads that are repaired next to the cliffs. Some roads are completely natural because it is difficult to lay cement and asphalt. When the car passes by, you can feel the obvious twisting of the car body. There is no shelter on the side of the road, and the water of the Nujiang River is rushing past below. I don’t know if it’s fake, but because there are too many cars, the road surface is full of scratches. , so don’t worry about going wrong, but for a person with a fear of heights, this is definitely exciting.
The car door is covered in mud — if you had to guess for yourself, can you guess what it is?
From Bingzhongluo to Gongshan is actually quite fast, but we ran for three and a half hours for the 100 kilometers from Gongshan to Fugong, and the distance from Fugong to Wayao Town was almost dark, waiting for us By the time Lushui finally saw the complete paved road, the big guys after more than a week of tossing had already begun to get used to this high-speed and smooth road.
The first station back was closed due to road construction at night, so we turned back 10km to live in Shiyue Town; the distance from Shiyue to Dali is about 421km, and Baidu Map estimated that it would take 11 hours. I estimated 12 hours, but in fact It took a full 14 hours to arrive in Dali, about 1 hour away from eating in the middle, this speed is already the fastest possible; and we finally had dinner in Dali.
Bingchacha, we will fight again at the end of the month.
